amb236 wrote:Next problem tho....need to get rid off/swap out everything thats not black component wise haha

It's a false economy, black bikes are boring safe fashion, bright ano mismatch is where it's at.

Right, headsets.

I have acquired a new (second band) front fork to fit to my MTB and thought it might be a good chance to upgrade the headset (currently FSA NO.57/61BP, which is OEM spec ball bearing and cage type and last time I serviced it was pretty sad looking). What information do I need to know in order to select the correct headset? Fork and headtube are both standard taper (1 1/2" to 1 1/8"). Will I need to source and replace the crownrace on the fork as well, as I assume these are somewhat specific to each type of headset?

Cheers in advance.

amb236 wrote:Right, headsets.

I have acquired a new (second band) front fork to fit to my MTB and thought it might be a good chance to upgrade the headset (currently FSA NO.57/61BP, which is OEM spec ball bearing and cage type and last time I serviced it was pretty sad looking). What information do I need to know in order to select the correct headset? Fork and headtube are both standard taper (1 1/2" to 1 1/8"). Will I need to source and replace the crownrace on the fork as well, as I assume these are somewhat specific to each type of headset?

Cheers in advance.

You'll need frame cup dimensions and head-tube type. Internal vs external vs blah blah blah.

Deano from Wideopen is the FSA guy and should have a good way to ID these. They don't sell direct but they can tell you which models to order.

This works too:

https://www.canecreek.com/headset-fit-finder

Dougal wrote:

amb236 wrote:Right, headsets.

I have acquired a new (second band) front fork to fit to my MTB and thought it might be a good chance to upgrade the headset (currently FSA NO.57/61BP, which is OEM spec ball bearing and cage type and last time I serviced it was pretty sad looking). What information do I need to know in order to select the correct headset? Fork and headtube are both standard taper (1 1/2" to 1 1/8"). Will I need to source and replace the crownrace on the fork as well, as I assume these are somewhat specific to each type of headset?

Cheers in advance.

You'll need frame cup dimensions and head-tube type. Internal vs external vs blah blah blah.

Deano from Wideopen is the FSA guy and should have a good way to ID these. They don't sell direct but they can tell you which models to order.

You are welcome to email me at work with the above model details of the headset and your make and model of bike and I will easily be able to point you in the direction of what headset /s you will be able to order from your favorite local bike shop

dean at wideopen.co.nz

dwgknz wrote:This works too:

https://www.canecreek.com/headset-fit-finder

There are combinations of headtube that the above doesn't quite always get right last time I played with it

pushbikerider wrote:

dwgknz wrote:This works too:

https://www.canecreek.com/headset-fit-finder

There are combinations of headtube that the above doesn't quite always get right last time I played with it

didn't FSA come out with one not long ago?
i went looking for it but couldn't find it and gave up looking

el_booto wrote:

pushbikerider wrote:

dwgknz wrote:This works too:

https://www.canecreek.com/headset-fit-finder

There are combinations of headtube that the above doesn't quite always get right last time I played with it

didn't FSA come out with one not long ago?
i went looking for it but couldn't find it and gave up looking

FSA easy headset is what you are looking for.

Looking at trying out a 170mm Lyrik on the SB6, instead of the 160mm Pike. I'm told the Pike is a 44mm offset/rake, and the Lyrik is 42mm. Any idea if there would be a noticeable handling difference?
I realise when people spend this amount on a bike/gear we should probably have some sort of idea about these things, but as you can see, this isn't the case for me.....


Cheers

I noticed switching between 44 & 40mm offset.
Same travel and A-C though.

Didn't like the faster handling of the 44mm as much.

Sweet, thanks for the info. Will give it a miss for now and see how the new Luftkappe goes.

Cheers

Velocipedestrian wrote:I noticed switching between 44 & 40mm offset.
Same travel and A-C though.

Didn't like the faster handling of the 44mm as much.

I'm considering turning a crown around for a laugh. Might get close to zero offset.

Dougal wrote:

Velocipedestrian wrote:I noticed switching between 44 & 40mm offset.
Same travel and A-C though.

Didn't like the faster handling of the 44mm as much.

I'm considering turning a crown around for a laugh. Might get close to zero offset.

You need to investigate a custom crown for negative offset. The world needs shopping trolley steering on bikes.

Conners wrote:

Dougal wrote:

Velocipedestrian wrote:I noticed switching between 44 & 40mm offset.
Same travel and A-C though.

Didn't like the faster handling of the 44mm as much.

I'm considering turning a crown around for a laugh. Might get close to zero offset.

You need to investigate a custom crown for negative offset. The world needs shopping trolley steering on bikes.

You don't get shopping trolley steering until you've got negative trail. Even with slightly negative offset (I haven't checked how offset is in crown vs lowers yet) and a ~70 degree head angle you'll have plenty of trail.

Were you at that CUMBC party in my old flat where Dave (there's always a Dave) had a 10sp with front forks raked out (bent) half a foot out in front?
Sketchiest bike I've ever ridden. Head angle was near vertical and forks had ~200mm offset.

It was like trying to keep a shopping trolley wheel tracking backwards!

This looks like another opportunity to post this one.
Sketchiest bike I've ever ridden.