KieranC wrote:Has any seen many 2010-2011 Specialized E-100 future shocks in recent years? any stories of crown failure?

my fiend's one has a full matrix of cracks on the carbon crown, from my opinion it looks like its just the clear coat epoxy stuff to make it look swank that is cracked, and picking at the edges with a screw driver it seems like it is superficial, but her lbs reckons it is on the brink of catastrophe. any thoughts?

I've got replacement crown/steerer/stanchions for those.

Clear coat doesn't crack without a whole lot of movement underneath. Or a lot of uv light.

Right, so I figured I should faff with my dropper once more before sending back. Summary of what I did last night is as follows:

1. With the post out of the bike, with no seat installed, and the lever not attached to the bar, the post works fine.
2. Attach the seat to the post, still work fine. Even with seat rail clamp bolts done up good and tight.
3. Put post into bike, torque up seat post clamp to what I would call a normal torque (can't twist the seat by hand). Dropper works sweet when I push the lever lightly. But it jams if I push the lever all the way to the bar.
4. Loosen the seat rail clamp, hear the actuator lever (beneath the seat) click and unjam. Retighten seat rail clamps, dropper works - but only until I push the lever too hard again.
5. Loosen the seat post clamp, so that it is barely tight enough to not be able to rotate the seat by hand. Dropper works betterer, but still ultimately binds up when I press the lever too hard. Dropper unjams by giving the seat a whack with my hand, or backing off the tension on the seat rail clamps again.
6. Remove the lever from the bar - thinking this could be a cable pull/bind issue. But its not that either. Still binds when I push the lever all the way home.

I don't have a torque wrench - but will borrow one and start again by making sure that my seat post and seat rail clamps are not over tightened. If I still have the issue after that then its going to have to go back.

Can anyone think of anything that I'm missing in this whole scenario? I've probably always over tightened my seat post clamp and my seat rail clamps - seems really odd to me that I would need to have these torqued so low that I could almost move both of them by hand?

Is it the single or double bolt seat clamp version?

phunk wrote:Is it the single or double bolt seat clamp version?

Double bolt - which I think is the latest?

el_booto wrote:on the surface it kinda looks like crackles in the clear coat, but i'm no carbon expert...

i'm thinking an X-ray would be the way to know for sure (someone will be along to correct me soon if i'm mistaken)

the difference in density form the stanchions to the crown would mean the X-ray will be next to useless, unless you used a specific energy that targeted the k edge of the carbon, but I still think that seeing the contrast of the crack through the metal stanchions.

some powder that worked simular to the magnetic stuff that they use for steel might work?

Dougal wrote:

KieranC wrote:Has any seen many 2010-2011 Specialized E-100 future shocks in recent years? any stories of crown failure?

my fiend's one has a full matrix of cracks on the carbon crown, from my opinion it looks like its just the clear coat epoxy stuff to make it look swank that is cracked, and picking at the edges with a screw driver it seems like it is superficial, but her lbs reckons it is on the brink of catastrophe. any thoughts?

I've got replacement crown/steerer/stanchions for those.

Clear coat doesn't crack without a whole lot of movement underneath. Or a lot of uv light.

Cheers, on close inspection the clear coat of the frame is showing signs of the same cracking, so i'll find out about the UV exposure stats and pass on your details

AgrAde wrote:For what it's worth, the only tires that haven't had seepage through the sidewalls for me are dual ply ones. Most look like this but work fine (yes, every dark patch/line is stans):

Not just through the side wall. Everywhere. Closer inspection has revealed the tyre is shit. There's about six like this, including one on sidewall:





I'm guessing these were non snakeskin OEM Racing Ralphs and no reflection on the performance the EVO snakeskin version. I got about 650km out of these but most of these appeared after a loop of Karapoti and another ride up Karapoti gorge.

So whats more durable Ikon EXO or Racing Ralph Snakeskin? Want to find one before the break so don't get stuck. Also Stans is amazing for holding the pressure in this.

Conners wrote:1. With the post out of the bike, with no seat installed, and the lever not attached to the bar, the post works fine.
2. Attach the seat to the post, still work fine. Even with seat rail clamp bolts done up good and tight.
3. Put post into bike, torque up seat post clamp to what I would call a normal torque (can't twist the seat by hand). Dropper works sweet when I push the lever lightly. But it jams if I push the lever all the way to the bar.
6. Still binds when I push the lever all the way home.

Can anyone think of anything that I'm missing in this whole scenario?

Sounds like the cable tension is too high.
Loosen it off so that a full press of the lever is equivalent to what's currently a light press.


Or drill the frame and stealth mount it.

Brake cable stuck (rusted) in adjuster barrel on a road calliper, any suggestion on removal

it is from a inorganic disposal that I am trying to restore to working order fro my workmate to use.

I have been giving I a squirt with WD40 but no luck so far.

or should I just go to the LBS and buy 2 new barrels

Velocipedestrian wrote:

Conners wrote:1. With the post out of the bike, with no seat installed, and the lever not attached to the bar, the post works fine.
2. Attach the seat to the post, still work fine. Even with seat rail clamp bolts done up good and tight.
3. Put post into bike, torque up seat post clamp to what I would call a normal torque (can't twist the seat by hand). Dropper works sweet when I push the lever lightly. But it jams if I push the lever all the way to the bar.
6. Still binds when I push the lever all the way home.

Can anyone think of anything that I'm missing in this whole scenario?

Sounds like the cable tension is too high.
Loosen it off so that a full press of the lever is equivalent to what's currently a light press.


Or drill the frame and stealth mount it.

Chur - I had thought of both of those options - will try the cable tension. Although I don't really want the lever flapping around when its disengaged. Still feels wrong that it can jam at all though.

I have an interim travel restrictor solution which is working. What can't you fix with a zip tie?

Working is good.
With a zip tie is winning.

heading up the hill tomorrow to see the park for the first time, looking at chucking on a new front tire, whats the max size a pair of 150 float RLCS can take? With the 15 QR axle? Is it 2.4?

Argh. Creaks. I hate them. Sounds like it's coming from the BB. It only does it pedalling, and in the bigger cogs. I've pulled most of the bike apart. Doesn't make any noise doing bunny hops, or back pedalling, or isn't noticeable in the smaller cogs (or I'm going too quick to hear it).

Suspension linkage is smooth, everything is torqued to spec, the BB bearings spin smoothly too. I've checked the freehub, but I don't really know what I'm looking for. Grease was grey and there seemed to be enough of it.

mudguard wrote:Argh. Creaks. I hate them. Sounds like it's coming from the BB. It only does it pedalling, and in the bigger cogs. I've pulled most of the bike apart. Doesn't make any noise doing bunny hops, or back pedalling, or isn't noticeable in the smaller cogs (or I'm going too quick to hear it).

Suspension linkage is smooth, everything is torqued to spec, the BB bearings spin smoothly too. I've checked the freehub, but I don't really know what I'm looking for. Grease was grey and there seemed to be enough of it.

seat post? seat? chain ring bolts?

Knock the press fit bb cups out. If they've been moving you'll see the witness marks.

If that's the case. Epoxy inside the shell will hold them and can be knocked out in future if needed.