Bike Mechanics Impart Their Wisdom On Vorb

pushbikerider · *by **pushbikerider** on Sat 10/Oct/15 10:30am*

wpp1 wrote:Can anyone recommend an aluminium frame welder in Auckland.

Track down Mike Wilson of Wilson cycles in Drury

Dougal · *by **Dougal** on Sat 10/Oct/15 11:26am*

Got heat treatment covered?

shmoodiver · *by **shmoodiver** on Sat 10/Oct/15 12:10pm*

Don't need it, specially on a 6000 series frame, just ask gumby

Dougal · *by **Dougal** on Sat 10/Oct/15 1:20pm*

I'm quite fussy who I ask for advice on safety critical matters.

SierraKiloBravo · *by **SierraKiloBravo** on Sat 10/Oct/15 4:14pm*

Guys, retardo question that I am sure someone can advise on....

I've just put a new bike together and everything has gone to plan. The only thing I'm having trouble with is when the brakes are pulled on the pads don't even reach the rim (see pic). How do you adjust v brakes?

Thanks in advance!

AgrAde · *by **AgrAde** on Sat 10/Oct/15 4:25pm*

shmoodiver · *by **shmoodiver** on Sat 10/Oct/15 4:40pm*

You obviously need wider rims

SierraKiloBravo · *by **SierraKiloBravo** on Sat 10/Oct/15 4:56pm*

Thanks @AgrAde, super simple and all done. Cheers!

@shmoodiver: Indeed. Can I get a kit for this?

Farm · *by **Farm** on Sat 10/Oct/15 6:08pm*

These come off right? I've been gently tapping them from the inside with a hammer and screwdriver so as not to wreck them. They're a Cane Creek Intellaset.

ryda · *by **ryda** on Sat 10/Oct/15 7:36pm*

SierraKiloBravo wrote:@shmoodiver: Indeed. Can I get a kit for this?

yep XT upgrade

pushbikerider · *by **pushbikerider** on Sat 10/Oct/15 7:45pm*

Probably little point in removing them, unless the frame is a write off, as they are a specific sized headset, that isn't a common size out side of early to mid 2000's aluminium road frames

Sims · *by **Sims** on Sat 10/Oct/15 7:45pm*

Farm wrote:These come off right? I've been gently tapping them from the inside with a hammer and screwdriver so as not to wreck them. They're a Cane Creek Intellaset.

You'll never remove it (nicely) like that! You need a beating stick so you can really wail on it. Aluminium is my favourite beating stick material of choice, as it tends to give before the expensive other shit does... If you've got an old seat post lying around, chances are you can make your own ~~beating stick~~ headset cup removal tool

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VkY879pMafE

Farm · *by **Farm** on Sat 10/Oct/15 8:05pm*

Thanks, I was pretty sure they come out. The frame is being painted so I guess they'll need to come out.
I think I'll take it to the shop. I've exhausted my supply of things that are long enough and seemingly soft enough to wail on.

oldandlazy · *by **oldandlazy** on Wed 14/Oct/15 8:59am*

I have a Cane Creek 40-series tapered headset which appears to be dying on a bike which is only 4 moths old. Admittedly the bike has been ridden in some filthy conditions over winter, but this seems to be a bit premature to me. Previous bikes in the same conditions have had no issues, and I'd like something more reliable.

I'm pretty confident that the headset was properly pre-loaded originally, but now I find I either have noticeable slop at the bottom bearing, or at less than 1/16th of a turn further have that notchy bearing feeling.

So - do I buy a replacement 40-series bearing and chalk it up to ham-handed initial installation, or upgrade to the 110 series (and maybe replace the crown race at the same time if the 110-series offers better sealing)? Or do I look at another brand?

pushbikerider · *by **pushbikerider** on Wed 14/Oct/15 7:08pm*

Totally biased answer from me;

Fit a Chris King, you occasionally service the bearings rather than throw them away when the are toast

Bike Mechanics Impart Their Wisdom On Vorb

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