shmoodiver wrote:superglue in the split or hole then just make sure the tire is proper clean.

Ta

my lack of fitness on 1x10 is giving me some grief, currently not really using the 3 hardest gears on my 11-36, and the 32 front ring means even the easiest gear isn't quite enough for me to get up everything I want to.

I am however focused on the things that matter, can anyone confirm that the green ano of the one up rear sprocket is as similar to the green on the race face narrow wide ring, as the picture below implies?

ooooh, hard to say, you don't wanna screw this up, could really ruin your ability to ride.

I found this picture which seems to confirm they look the same

Remember - to make it all match nicely you're going to have to run a bigger rotor on the rear than the front.

Um ... I just noticed some play in my stanchion/lowers of my Sektors.... GUTTED... Is it safe to assume the bushes are poked?

If so, can they (the bushes) be replaced? Anyone know of a ball park figure I'd be looking at? There doesn't seem to be any wear on the stanchions as yet but I don't wanna keep riding on them if they're salvageable.

Cheers all!

Send them to Rick at Krankin for some Bush Love...

michael wrote:my lack of fitness on 1x10 is giving me some grief, currently not really using the 3 hardest gears on my 11-36, and the 32 front ring means even the easiest gear isn't quite enough for me to get up everything I want to.

I am however focused on the things that matter, can anyone confirm that the green ano of the one up rear sprocket is as similar to the green on the race face narrow wide ring, as the picture below implies?

20140217-135612.jpg

Here are a half dozen other things that do match the green ano raceface narrow-wide. Unfortunately it doesn't answer the one-up question.

RugbySucks wrote:Send them to Rick at Krankin for some Bush Love...

Won't get him very far...

Fox and manitou use taper fit bushings, but rockshox don't, only way he'll get rid of the movement between upper and lower is replacement lowers, as rockshox don't produce bushings for forks with the "power bulge" lowers

How much movement is there, mudlover?
Can you see the seal lip moving if you grab front brake and rock the fork back and forth (like checking your headset)

jo wrote:

shmoodiver wrote:I'm guessing the shimano crank Jo wants to run won't fit the GXP bb.

No. I havent decided what crank to get yet. But its not in my nature to buy stuff that wont fit. Its got X0 in at the moment. And I dont like to buy stuff I cant service. And I dont like to be bike-less for long so I like to get my ducks in a row first before I pull it to bits. Im not yet sure if its locktited in (the key question is - is that what gav would do?)

Mels advice not to change it unless its creaking is good. But I have to say - I'm sure I can make a bearing press. I dont have a lathe for moar engineering win (miss my old works model shop), but I'm more than capable of making something similar to the parktool one.

Is one of these an option for you Jo? http://www.shockcraft.co.nz/bearings-bu ... t-bearings
Talk to Dougal, as he may have a converter (or be able to make a converter) that will run an alternative to a sram BB/crank (if that's what you're after)
BB30 Bearings are relatively easy to fit and remove with the right tool.
I have seen a BB30 installed as cranks have been tightened*

*Not saying that I condone or approve of this method of installing

el_booto wrote:

RugbySucks wrote:Send them to Rick at Krankin for some Bush Love...

Won't get him very far...

Fox and manitou use taper fit bushings, but rockshox don't, only way he'll get rid of the movement between upper and lower is replacement lowers, as rockshox don't produce bushings for forks with the "power bulge" lowers

How much movement is there, mudlover?
Can you see the seal lip moving if you grab front brake and rock the fork back and forth (like checking your headset)

Nothing noticeable visually but can definitely feel movement when I jam my finger between the arch and stanchion and rock them back and forth... Power bulge eh... How convenient....

Took them to a shop this morning and he'll ring me monday to give me a price. Reckons about $300 which would probably pay for lowers and good service now that I think about it...

Ah well. In 4 years I've replaced the oil once otherwise not touched them aside from the odd drop of dry lube on the wiper seals. I can't really ask for more than that after the beating they've taken in that time too....

Plus as long as they're not much more than the estimated 300clams they'll still be cheaper to fix than to buy new...

Thanks for the input!

el_booto wrote:

RugbySucks wrote:Send them to Rick at Krankin for some Bush Love...

Won't get him very far...

Fox and manitou use taper fit bushings, but rockshox don't, only way he'll get rid of the movement between upper and lower is replacement lowers, as rockshox don't produce bushings for forks with the "power bulge" lowers

How much movement is there, mudlover?
Can you see the seal lip moving if you grab front brake and rock the fork back and forth (like checking your headset)

So why do Lyrik manuals have instructions for bushing replacement?

2011 RockShox SPC_Rev B wrote:11.4015.065.000 Domain/Lyrik Bushing Kit

Not straight-out doubting they're not actually available etc, I'd be bummed to discover that...

That manual is a 2011 one
Think it changed in '12, and from there on rockshox stopped doing bushing kits (32mm stuff for older Reba / Pike / boxxer stuff is still available as old stock but supply is diminishing)
You might be able to get a lyrik / domain kit from someone like crc/jenson, wouldn't guarantee that though

Yikes, might have a look next time I'm shopping at my IBS, would be a shame to have 2 Lyriks and no bushings available.