ArjanH wrote:Sorry I meant to say that you need some sort of syringe to inject fluid into the reservoir. I have found some DOT4 which will work appearantly so I just need to find a way of getting the fluid in.

Sounds like you want a professional. Get thee to your LBS.

Velocipedestrian wrote:

ArjanH wrote:Sorry I meant to say that you need some sort of syringe to inject fluid into the reservoir. I have found some DOT4 which will work appearantly so I just need to find a way of getting the fluid in.

Sounds like you want a professional. Get thee to your LBS.

And normally that would be my first port of call. Unfortunately by the time I figured out what the problem was they were closed for the day and they won't be open today. Going out riding no doubt.

I managed to find a standard medical syringe and some surgical tubing last night. I thought to myself "Whats the worst that can happen?". So I stole one of my wife's g-strings and had a go. It's not perfect but it works. There are obviously still some air bubbles in there somewhere but without a proper bleed kit I don't think I will be able to get them out. For some reason on the fluid port on the Elixir 1's handle is positioned so it will always be lower than the highest point on the hose. I don't know why they would have done it that way.

Unbolt the lever and position it so the port is highest. You may need to totally remove it from the bars to achieve this.

I've generally found bleeding much easier if you remove the whole system from the bike, means less chance if spilled fluid getting on rotors/bars etc too.

Conners wrote:Unbolt the lever and position it so the port is highest. You may need to totally remove it from the bars to achieve this.

I've generally found bleeding much easier if you remove the whole system from the bike, means less chance if spilled fluid getting on rotors/bars etc too.

As I found out last night

ArjanH wrote:

Conners wrote:Unbolt the lever and position it so the port is highest. You may need to totally remove it from the bars to achieve this.

I've generally found bleeding much easier if you remove the whole system from the bike, means less chance if spilled fluid getting on rotors/bars etc too.

As I found out last night

The hard way?

Velocipedestrian wrote:

ArjanH wrote:

Conners wrote:Unbolt the lever and position it so the port is highest. You may need to totally remove it from the bars to achieve this.

I've generally found bleeding much easier if you remove the whole system from the bike, means less chance if spilled fluid getting on rotors/bars etc too.

As I found out last night

The hard way?

Hah yep ... learning curve bending upwards :P

In my defense though I would like to say that the brakes did work for the whole ride.

I'm replacing the rear shock pivot bush in my Heckler (Fox DHX Air). I've bought a new kit to do it and have hit a snag
What are the larger black rings for? I think i can figure out how the rest of it goes together
but dunno where these rings are meant to go.
Any pearls of wisdom greatly appreciated!

Chuck the pin in the shock, put spacers in and see where they could fit.
Looking at the 2nd to last pic, there doesn't seem to be much room for the shock eyelet

pretty sure the grey/tan bits replace your DU bushing, then the black axle goes in the middle and then the O rings as seals followed by the black rings as spacers.

I could be wrong tho

what brand are they?

Igus?

I dunno, ask Chickenman, he sold them to me!
Got it, cheers fellas!

How much movement around a 15mm maxle is ok? I've just fitted adapters to a new wheel and have found quite a bit of vertical movement. Horizontal is fine.

Did you find the play when it's all bolted to the fork?
Or just when you put the adaptors in?

When on the fork.

There's no play in the adapters/axle.