The only time I'm finding myself wishing for the 11 is when I am busting my gut trying to get over 80 on a downhill. Do I really need it? No. But, I like to bust my gut going downhill, so do I want it? Yes.
I still use the 26 a lot going up hills and often use the 27 when doing reps or on the steeper climbs. I've still got 90kg of mass to get up the hills, so even the 25 option may be a bit dodgy for me.
For want's sake I wont go to the expense of a Dura-Ace 11-27 although that would be the perfect fit for me. If there was a 11-27 105 / Ultegra option I'd probably cash in my coin jar to do it.

At around 80 kph you would probably find you can go quicker by getting more aerodynamic rather than pedaling hard out. As velocity increases the air resistance is squared... meaning the more aerodynamic you can get the faster you are likely to go.

I am quite light, but used to be able to easily pass people who were pedaling hard out downhill by simply tucking really small and getting aerodynamic.

I remember some cycle nut on another forum doing the research to prove that, once you get over 70kmh, you'll go faster down a hill by stopping pedalling and adopting a seriously-aero position, than if you sacrifice your position to keep yourself pedalling. All the extra pedalling is doing, at that stage, is compensating for the extra drag... Plus tiring you out, of course.

Oh and the "34-28 is only suitable for grannies" is highly offensive. To grannies. Mine pushes a 42-23.

edit: ok trail beat me to it...

Trail wrote:I am quite light, but used to be able to easily pass people who were pedaling hard out downhill by simply tucking really small and getting aerodynamic.

yep - hands UNDER bars right against stem, elbow tucked in, forehead on stem, cranks level, knees touching top tube

quaintly referred to as the 'about to meet your maker' position

Try this one Matt. You'll forget all about that 11 tooth....

Trail wrote:At around 80 kph you would probably find you can go quicker by getting more aerodynamic rather than pedaling hard out. As velocity increases the air resistance is squared... meaning the more aerodynamic you can get the faster you are likely to go.

I am quite light, but used to be able to easily pass people who were pedaling hard out downhill by simply tucking really small and getting aerodynamic.

What he said.

Plus at 90kg mass you should be able to get past 80kph easily purely through gravity.

We like telling where you're going wrong.

danose wrote:

Trail wrote:I am quite light, but used to be able to easily pass people who were pedaling hard out downhill by simply tucking really small and getting aerodynamic.

yep - hands UNDER bars right against stem, elbow tucked in, forehead on stem, cranks level, knees touching top tube

quaintly referred to as the 'about to meet your maker' position

oh and if you are still sitting on your seat, there is a much more aerodynamic position where you basically almost sit on the top tube just in front of the seat and wrap your legs around your toptube that might be how all 65kg of me was able to beat the big guys down the hills

feddydafish wrote:Try this one Matt. You'll forget all about that 11 tooth....

I have seen a number of the pro roadies adopting this position. I actually would have thought that the sitting on the top tube just in front of the seat was more aero, and one hell of a lot more stable?? I think you can get lower and smaller wrapped around the top tube rather than around the handlebar and forks like that!!

actually, if you want aero... try this position. Requires good abdominal control!!

Trail wrote:actually, if you want aero... try this position. Requires good abdominal control!!

works so well euskatel adopted it too (mad spaniards )

Just don't expect to have any kids within a few years after

danose wrote:

Trail wrote:actually, if you want aero... try this position. Requires good abdominal control!!

works so well euskatel adopted it too (mad spaniards )

euskaltel_nutter.jpg

Nutter!! I mean that literally!!

I mean at least in my photo I am supporting myself on my abs not on my bollocks like that carrot is!!

Get an 11-32 sram.
http://www.sram.com/sram/road/products/ ... 0-cassette
With the 32 you'll be able to put all the weight you lost back on, will help no end going down.

Trail wrote:

danose wrote:

Trail wrote:actually, if you want aero... try this position. Requires good abdominal control!!

works so well euskatel adopted it too (mad spaniards )

euskaltel_nutter.jpg

Nutter!! I mean that literally!!

I mean at least in my photo I am supporting myself on my abs not on my bollocks like that carrot is!!

I used to do that from time to time and the saddle is mainly resting on your pelvis and lower abs, not your twig and berries.

OK ok ok, the only real way i can tell the difference is that on the trek which goes to 11 I can hit 80 going down pukerua bay (north side) with armadillo tyres on. I probably stop pedaling at about 75 and tuck in as best I can, although choose not to adopt the pictured positions.
On the Roubaix with the 12 I can only pedal it up to about 70 and that is tops. I don't think I have ever got the roubaix over 75.

As for the 28, etc. Yup I'm heavy and need some granny gears, but I don't need the 28, in fact I don't need anything over 26. The roubaix cassette came as 27-12 10-spd, the trek 26-11 9-spd.

If I start thinking about the cost benefit though....it's a no brainer. Wear out the 28-12 first then replace it with a 25-11 or something similar later. I guess I'd just 'like' to reach 100 on the bike one day and I can see that happening with the 12....unless I get a really good road to have a play on.