Just if it's any use, there are 2 shops in Christchurch that have a manitou shock service kit.
As I said above, Kris Olsen (Bike works) has a kit, and Bike Hq also has a kit.
Those are the only two tool kits in the south island as far as I know.
There's also another couple of tools that You'll need.
You'll also need a pair of 10mm shaft clamps to disassemble the damper shaft, and a floating piston removal tool. - have fun trying to remove the piston without the tool, it won't be easy.

Mr_Bob wrote:You'll also need a pair of 10mm shaft clamps to disassemble the damper shaft, and a floating piston removal tool. - have fun trying to remove the piston without the tool, it won't be easy.

i found that rather easy? i just over fulled the damper body full of oil and the then pushed the piston in and it popped the floating piston out just like that, rather messy but worked

Mr_Bob wrote:Just if it's any use, there are 2 shops in Christchurch that have a manitou shock service kit.
As I said above, Kris Olsen (Bike works) has a kit, and Bike Hq also has a kit.
Those are the only two tool kits in the south island as far as I know.
There's also another couple of tools that You'll need.
You'll also need a pair of 10mm shaft clamps to disassemble the damper shaft, and a floating piston removal tool. - have fun trying to remove the piston without the tool, it won't be easy.

Doctor Bike has a tool kit. And I have seen one at Bicycle Business in town as well.

Mr_Bob wrote:You'll also need a pair of 10mm shaft clamps to disassemble the damper shaft, and a floating piston removal tool. - have fun trying to remove the piston without the tool, it won't be easy.

Yeah I have had an investigation of the other stuff and it isn't an issue, the 10mm shaft clamp is easy and I'm sure I can come up with some cunning way to remove the IFP, given the manitou tool looks like it just seals up the body I'm sure the application of compressed air or similar and she'll be apples moit.

slowMTB wrote:Hi wobbler,

I have a few 30 odd mm sockets in the garage. They are 6 sided so may work ( no slippage ). Do you want me to have a look at sizes ( 30 or 32mm ) for you?

Yeah if you've got a 31mm amongst that lot it would be handy (assuming the OD isnt massive like most of them seem to be) my kit goes from 30 to 32, and the imperial one in the middle is mucho to larger an OD (powerbuilts they are, although its looking like most brands are a much larger OD that will fit.)

Wobbler,

Supercheaps usually pretty good for getting a single socket, the last one i got was around $5, so no worries about destroying it, also if you cant get anything suitable PM me and i'll see if i can get the boys to CNC one up for you

Yeah, I've got a fair list o' places to get a 31mm socket from, I was hoping I could get one that didn't need to be molested too much (I'm lazy). But as that doesn't seem to be the case I'll just grab one (facom 6 pt 31mm are like 8 bucks from trade tools) and turn it down so it'll fit.

Ive got the kit too. HTH.

Must be one of the few Kits I don't have, ........ off to the machine shop........

You can buy mine, I dont use it anymore.

Thanks for the offer, but does any one use Manitou shocks any more!

Besides most of the ones we see have been it with a seat post and broken through the end casting.

Simpleone wrote:Thanks for the offer, but does any one use Manitou shocks any more!

Besides most of the ones we see have been it with a seat post and broken through the end casting.

Which is why I dont use mine anymore. I think I have a body or 2 kicking around.

Had an interesting problem start up on the roadbike today. This is how it presents:

Riding along everything is fine, begin coasting and it is usually fine if only for a couple of seconds, if I coast for a while or down a hill then the drivetrain fails. What I mean by this is that the cranks/chain/sprockets/chainrings will all turn, but the wheel won't drive. So eventually I figure out that if I get off the bike and physically rotate the sprockets clockwise less than a cm, it will begin driving again, so it appears that there is play in the sprocket area for some reason.

The changes made to the bike recently are a new set of wheels, I had my friend pull the sprocket cluster thing off my old rear wheel and install it on my new rear wheel, so I'm guessing this is the problem. Anybody hazard a guess as to the specific problem?

Your freehub is borked.

what kind of wheel? sounds like the freehub pawls are sticking

Thank you for such a prompt reply!

Is there any test I can do to determine if thats 100% the problem? If it is, whats my best course of action? Bearing in mind I still have the old wheel, just without the cluster on it.

slidecontrol: its a Mavic Ksyrium