My only question was, what took them so long?
http://redkiteprayer.com/2015/11/mass-extinction/

Surely it would mean a wheel would be longer lasting. Or was wearing a rim out a bit of a myth to begin with?

I would think that there would be a massive paranoia about different braking performance in a peleton, but realistically a good U brake is just as good.
The concern I would have is the engineering needed in the fork legs, because you are taking a stress point from an easy to engineer load bearing point to a difficult to engineer point - its fine for mountainbikes because front forks are built to take knocks, but in road bikes, everything is built with light weight in mind ...

foremannz wrote:I would think that there would be a massive paranoia about different braking performance in a peleton, but realistically a good U brake is just as good.
The concern I would have is the engineering needed in the fork legs, because you are taking a stress point from an easy to engineer load bearing point to a difficult to engineer point - its fine for mountainbikes because front forks are built to take knocks, but in road bikes, everything is built with light weight in mind ...

Sure, but they seem to find it so easy to hit that minimum weight limit, having a heavier fork doesn't seem like it would hit performance?

mudguard wrote:My only question was, what took them so long?
http://redkiteprayer.com/2015/11/mass-extinction/

Surely it would mean a wheel would be longer lasting. Or was wearing a rim out a bit of a myth to begin with?

Yep, I love the disc brakes on my roadie.

Rim wear - not sure it would be an issue on a roadie, but I do have a MTB in my garage that has a lot of scalloping on the rims, I contribute the wear to 1: Old age 2: Mud / grit accelerating wear. Wearing out a rim is possible but it is really just a myth, simple maintenance will avoid failure.

Velocipedestrian wrote:

foremannz wrote:I would think that there would be a massive paranoia about different braking performance in a peleton, but realistically a good U brake is just as good.
The concern I would have is the engineering needed in the fork legs, because you are taking a stress point from an easy to engineer load bearing point to a difficult to engineer point - its fine for mountainbikes because front forks are built to take knocks, but in road bikes, everything is built with light weight in mind ...

Sure, but they seem to find it so easy to hit that minimum weight limit, having a heavier fork doesn't seem like it would hit performance?

^^^ Totally agree, but if discs do add weight and manufacturers need to remove weight somewhere else on the frame to compensate one would hope that the structural integrity of the frame / other components is not compromised in the process ( remember, we are talking race bikes here, not your average road bike for the masses ).

slowMTB wrote:

Velocipedestrian wrote:

foremannz wrote:I would think that there would be a massive paranoia about different braking performance in a peleton, but realistically a good U brake is just as good.
The concern I would have is the engineering needed in the fork legs, because you are taking a stress point from an easy to engineer load bearing point to a difficult to engineer point - its fine for mountainbikes because front forks are built to take knocks, but in road bikes, everything is built with light weight in mind ...

Sure, but they seem to find it so easy to hit that minimum weight limit, having a heavier fork doesn't seem like it would hit performance?

^^^ Totally agree, but if discs do add weight and manufacturers need to remove weight somewhere else on the frame to compensate one would hope that the structural integrity of the frame / other components is not compromised in the process ( remember, we are talking race bikes here, not your average road bike for the masses ).

Think of the number of S-Works etc level bikes you see under MAMILs on a sunny weekend...

Gotta make em strong enough for a 100kg casual rider round Taupo.

Not to mention all the water bottles you need for such an event.

How many would you need?

foremannz wrote:I would think that there would be a massive paranoia about different braking performance in a peleton, but realistically a good U brake is just as good.
The concern I would have is the engineering needed in the fork legs, because you are taking a stress point from an easy to engineer load bearing point to a difficult to engineer point - its fine for mountainbikes because front forks are built to take knocks, but in road bikes, everything is built with light weight in mind ...

There's only ~170g difference in an ENVE Cross Disc fork vs a road fork (Cross disc @ 450g, Road 1.0 @ 295g). I used the Cross fork for the 2014 Kiwi Brevet, and it was rock solid, even on some of the gnarlier sections (Maungatapu track, Big River, Wharfedale, Rainbow, etc).

I've subsequently been using the MTN rigid fork (at a beefy 660g) on my MTB, and it's been sturdy as.

So what does this mean for road wheels? Wider hubs?

What is CX using with discs?

slowMTB wrote:Wearing out a rim is possible but it is really just a myth, simple maintenance will avoid failure.

I wore out a rim on my mountain bike, took a long time and a lot of kms and a number of brake pads (I think at leas 5 sets) probably contributed to by grit on the braking surface.
but final nail in the coffin was pumping it up too hard at the petrol station. which raises the issue for road bike with higher pressure tiers is this more of a risk?

but saying that maintenance will avoid, is like saying maintenance can avoid brake pads wearing out. though lack of maintenance can make it worse.

Dougal wrote:So what does this mean for road wheels? Wider hubs?

What is CX using with discs?

CX is 135mm (or 12x142).

Road disc is still 130mm I think, lots of sooking about 135 rear ends meaning that they would need to go wider BB if they want to keep the chainstays short (or else chain gets on too rowdy an angle - Shimano actually specify a minimum chainstay length for each BB width and rear end combination to ensure chain does not rub in adjacent cogs when on a big angle etc) wah wah wide qfactor is bad etc

My next road bike is gonna have discs for sure, that way I can run cheapo chinese carbon clincher rims and not worry about shitty braking/heat issues (though I don't mong brake drag down descents on my road bike so I'd be fine anyway).

Reading a lot of comments on articles from roadies about discs there is a whole lot of panic still about rotors slicing people in a bunch pileup etc. I'd be just as worried about a chainring...but when was the last time you heard of someone getting minced by a chainring in a pileup?

philstar wrote:

slowMTB wrote:Wearing out a rim is possible but it is really just a myth, simple maintenance will avoid failure.

I wore out a rim on my mountain bike, took a long time and a lot of kms and a number of brake pads (I think at leas 5 sets) probably contributed to by grit on the braking surface.
but final nail in the coffin was pumping it up too hard at the petrol station. which raises the issue for road bike with higher pressure tiers is this more of a risk?

but saying that maintenance will avoid, is like saying maintenance can avoid brake pads wearing out. though lack of maintenance can make it worse.

My maintenance involves replacement of worn parts when required. But I do see your point.

dave_sharpe wrote:

foremannz wrote:I would think that there would be a massive paranoia about different braking performance in a peleton, but realistically a good U brake is just as good.
The concern I would have is the engineering needed in the fork legs, because you are taking a stress point from an easy to engineer load bearing point to a difficult to engineer point - its fine for mountainbikes because front forks are built to take knocks, but in road bikes, everything is built with light weight in mind ...

There's only ~170g difference in an ENVE Cross Disc fork vs a road fork (Cross disc @ 450g, Road 1.0 @ 295g). I used the Cross fork for the 2014 Kiwi Brevet, and it was rock solid, even on some of the gnarlier sections (Maungatapu track, Big River, Wharfedale, Rainbow, etc).

I've subsequently been using the MTN rigid fork (at a beefy 660g) on my MTB, and it's been sturdy as.

When you look at it in grams it ain't much but when you look at percentage that's HUGE! The cross fork has over 50% more material than the road fork.

shmoodiver wrote:

dave_sharpe wrote:

foremannz wrote:I would think that there would be a massive paranoia about different braking performance in a peleton, but realistically a good U brake is just as good.
The concern I would have is the engineering needed in the fork legs, because you are taking a stress point from an easy to engineer load bearing point to a difficult to engineer point - its fine for mountainbikes because front forks are built to take knocks, but in road bikes, everything is built with light weight in mind ...

There's only ~170g difference in an ENVE Cross Disc fork vs a road fork (Cross disc @ 450g, Road 1.0 @ 295g). I used the Cross fork for the 2014 Kiwi Brevet, and it was rock solid, even on some of the gnarlier sections (Maungatapu track, Big River, Wharfedale, Rainbow, etc).

I've subsequently been using the MTN rigid fork (at a beefy 660g) on my MTB, and it's been sturdy as.

When you look at it in grams it ain't much but when you look at percentage that's HUGE! The cross fork has over 50% more material than the road fork.

True, but beefing up the stays to cope with the shift is more like the grams than percentage, say add that same 170g to the frame?