Velocipedestrian wrote:Will 26" 35mm Boxxer lowers fit a 26" Lyrik CSU?
Looking for alternative sources of parts to keep the old forks running...

Apparently no

shmoodiver wrote:

Velocipedestrian wrote:Will 26" 35mm Boxxer lowers fit a 26" Lyrik CSU?
Looking for alternative sources of parts to keep the old forks running...

Apparently no

Ah, righto.

Just in case it makes a difference, I meant Boxxers of a similar generation - 2011 vintage or so. The casting looks the same, but has a different part number.

Velocipedestrian wrote:Will 26" 35mm Boxxer lowers fit a 26" Lyrik CSU?
Looking for alternative sources of parts to keep the old forks running...

Stanchion spacing is probably the issue. The Boost Lyrik lowers are allegedly compatible. 26" are of course not boost.

Dougal, one for you after reading the NSMB article (Woot BTW!).

I’m going to change the air spring on my 2019 Sektor RL to the 130-150mm spring. While it’s apart what should I be doing to prepare it for winter here in Canada?

I think I’ll keep riding till it snows properly in Dec/Jan but expect to see some colder dry weather before that. There’s 2 days of summer left and it’s dropping to 4 degrees at night already (went from 4 to 25 today!). What do I need to do to keep the suspension soft in the cold, say down to -10?

I’m going to work with my brother in law at his workshop. His knowledge is on motorbike and snowmobile suspension so thought I’d try to supplement with bike knowledge.

Thanks

dwgknz wrote:Dougal, one for you after reading the NSMB article (Woot BTW!).

I’m going to change the air spring on my 2019 Sektor RL to the 130-150mm spring. While it’s apart what should I be doing to prepare it for winter here in Canada?

I think I’ll keep riding till it snows properly in Dec/Jan but expect to see some colder dry weather before that. There’s 2 days of summer left and it’s dropping to 4 degrees at night already (went from 4 to 25 today!). What do I need to do to keep the suspension soft in the cold, say down to -10?

I’m going to work with my brother in law at his workshop. His knowledge is on motorbike and snowmobile suspension so thought I’d try to supplement with bike knowledge.

Thanks

I'd say SKF green seals, slickoleum only in the air-spring and better oils in the damper and lower legs. I can't say if any of the internal seals will be happy at -10C. A lot of shrinking and hardening goes on which can cause internal leaks.

Shockcraft Hot Oil Pink is the best we currently have in extreme cold for damper. I haven't checked the new Motorex RSF. RS 0W30 is okay for viscosity but doesn't lube as well. I'd be using Motorex Polar Lube (0W40).

https://nsmb.com/articles/cold-weather- ... uspension/
https://www.shockcraft.co.nz/oils/lube-oil
https://www.shockcraft.co.nz/oils/shock-damper-oil

Thanks Dougal, awesome info.

Anyone here follow Hambini on youtube? An engineer who has quite a bit to say on BB stds and manufacturing.

Can anyone (Dougal?) comment knowledgeably on his work?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JCNSZFb38fQ

Derryn Hinch wrote:Anyone here follow Hambini on youtube? An engineer who has quite a bit to say on BB stds and manufacturing.

Can anyone (Dougal?) comment knowledgeably on his work?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JCNSZFb38fQ

25 minutes. I haven't got that long. Have you got a specific time-stamp to check out?

Nah, just wondering how much is being outrageous for the sake of self promotion.

Conclusions are at 20.00ish. BAsically says Praxis M30 and GXP BBs are a crap design because the way they load the bearings and their inability to cope with frame manufacturing mis-allignment.

Derryn Hinch wrote:Nah, just wondering how much is being outrageous for the sake of self promotion.

Conclusions are at 20.00ish. BAsically says Praxis M30 and GXP BBs are a crap design because the way they load the bearings and their inability to cope with frame manufacturing mis-allignment.

I haven't found frame misalignment to be a factor in BB bearing life yet. But I also haven't seen his specific case. It's water in all the ones I've ever seen. Even if you think a bearing looks clean with no corrosion on the outside, pull it apart and what used to be grease is now rusty paste.

Hubs, some suspension pivots and RF ISIS BB's we have seen a lot of failures from side-loading. This is easy to see on bearing disassembly with the inner race smeared up on one side.

Since I last rebuilt my fork I'm getting some nasty spring side sounds.
Some of it sounds like coil - stanchion contact, but there's also some plastic clacking going on.

I added a -10mm travel spacer to the stack, going from 170mm to 160.
Should I have glued this to its neighbour?
The extra preload on the spring made it hard to get the top cap on, so I'm surprised there's enough room for anything to rattle... It never did with the longer stroke.

Hints?

Velocipedestrian wrote:Since I last rebuilt my fork I'm getting some nasty spring side sounds.
Some of it sounds like coil - stanchion contact, but there's also some plastic clacking going on.

I added a -10mm travel spacer to the stack, going from 170mm to 160.
Should I have glued this to its neighbour?
The extra preload on the spring made it hard to get the top cap on, so I'm surprised there's enough room for anything to rattle... It never did with the longer stroke.

Hints?

Heat-Shrink is your friend. Use several bands at different heights as one long bit doesn't like to flex with the spring.

Another query regarding keeping 10 year old forks limping along...

Anyone know if Rockshox Pike & Revelation CSUs are compatible for 2008 (or there abouts) models. Similar travel (130 vs 140) and they appear to be the same with the eye-ometer, but found a 2008 spares catalog online and even the different versions of the Pikes (Solo Air, 2-Step & Coil) are showing different P/Ns for the CSUs.

Have a Pike with the steerer tube coming loose in the crown that I'd like to resuscitate, and there's a pair of 08 Revelations on Trademe at present..

thx
Richard.

tricky wrote:Another query regarding keeping 10 year old forks limping along...

Anyone know if Rockshox Pike & Revelation CSUs are compatible for 2008 (or there abouts) models. Similar travel (130 vs 140) and they appear to be the same with the eye-ometer, but found a 2008 spares catalog online and even the different versions of the Pikes (Solo Air, 2-Step & Coil) are showing different P/Ns for the CSUs.

Have a Pike with the steerer tube coming loose in the crown that I'd like to resuscitate, and there's a pair of 08 Revelations on Trademe at present..

thx
Richard.

I think stanchion wall thickness could be different. So check if the air shafts swap.

2005 Reign, was 9 speed, converted to 10 speed but retained the original 9 speed Raceface evolve crankset which seemed to work OK.

I now need to replace the middle chainring as it's worn. Is this the right thing?:

https://www.burkescycles.co.nz/collecti ... chainrings