Dougal (or others) have you had a look at a RS Sektor RL? Got one on a Kona Honzo and was hoping to increase the travel a bit but can’t tell if the 120mm chassis will fit a longer spring.

The service manual isn’t clear.

dwgknz wrote:Dougal (or others) have you had a look at a RS Sektor RL? Got one on a Kona Honzo and was hoping to increase the travel a bit but can’t tell if the 120mm chassis will fit a longer spring.

The service manual isn’t clear.

This one? https://konaworld.com/honzo_dl.cfm

Parts listing shows a different air shaft required for 130-150mm travel and it's about $170.

Yep that’s it. It’s to tie me over until my other bike arrives here in Canada by container in a few weeks. Then it will be an inclement weather bike. You know you’re getting cranky when you’re wife suggests you go out and buy a bike.

Thanks, I wasn’t sure if it was a just a different airshaft required as the manual branches off in two directions so I thought it may need more.

Can’t get the hang of backwards brakes. What’s the chances I can switch the hoses on Shimano levers without having to bleed the brakes? Shimano bleed kit also in the container....

dwgknz wrote:Can’t get the hang of backwards brakes. What’s the chances I can switch the hoses on Shimano levers without having to bleed the brakes? Shimano bleed kit also in the container....

50%. I've done it without losing a single drop of oil and having the brakes feel firm immediately after. But it's a lottery.

Bleeding them would be a 5 min job too

Astoria Paranoia wrote:Bleeding them would be a 5 min job too

Not if you're waiting for container to arrive with a bleed kit in it...

Conners wrote:

Astoria Paranoia wrote:Bleeding them would be a 5 min job too

Not if you're waiting for container to arrive with a bleed kit in it...

Oh noes there's nobody else that could do it for him as a job.

Astoria Paranoia wrote:

Conners wrote:

Astoria Paranoia wrote:Bleeding them would be a 5 min job too

Not if you're waiting for container to arrive with a bleed kit in it...

Oh noes there's nobody else that could do it for him as a job.

The whole question goes out the window if he’s paying someone else doesn’t it...

Ended up buying a bleeding cup and doing it. Things aren’t ridiculously expensive over here so not so painful.

Did a quick bleed after switching - 50% success, no bubbles in one and a bit in the other.

So it's been a while since I've re-taped my front wheel.
It's time for a new tire on it.
I remember last time when I took the old tire off it took the tape with it.
I managed to get it back on roughly to where I thought it was.
What are the pro tips for taping a rim so it doesn't leak out the spoke holes into the rim and won't come undone when I take the tire off?

Not a pro, but I recall the Stans instructional video showing the tape being pulled REALLY tight as you work your way around the rim.
Like to the point it almost looks like its going to yield/stretch.

And make sure your rim is REALLY clean before you start.

Conners wrote:And make sure your rim is REALLY clean before you start.

That's probably my lazy problem
Also I think I'm using 23mm tape for a 25mm rim but that's worked before.

Astoria Paranoia wrote:

Conners wrote:And make sure your rim is REALLY clean before you start.

That's probably my lazy problem
Also I think I'm using 23mm tape for a 25mm rim but that's worked before.

That should improve the issue of the tape wanting to off with the tyre!
I can't see 1mm either side being a problem either, edge of tape will be nowhere near the spoke holes.

Get some warmth into the rim first, helps the tape stick down

Will 26" 35mm Boxxer lowers fit a 26" Lyrik CSU?
Looking for alternative sources of parts to keep the old forks running...