by swtchbckr on Tue 16/Aug/16 11:28am
by happybaboon on Tue 16/Aug/16 11:39am
by musta on Tue 16/Aug/16 7:08pm
happybaboon wrote:Most 29er forks are "suspension adjusted"...
It's a cx bike so the head tube angle is relatively slack (71.5) and it's rocking a bit of rake already (53mm). I ride it on steepish trails a bit and I wouldn't mind a little more slackness up front. Just I suspect adding in 30-40mm of extra fork might be going overboard.
Another question... Is it OK to put thin steel washers behind disc rotor bolts (between rotor and the hub)? Caliper won't align properly and the inside pad always rubs.
by happybaboon on Tue 16/Aug/16 7:55pm
by Astoria Paranoia on Tue 16/Aug/16 8:01pm
by Percy Pig on Tue 16/Aug/16 9:03pm
Astoria Paranoia wrote:File out the caliper.
You might introduce rotor wobble with washers.
by Wobbler on Tue 16/Aug/16 9:10pm
Percy Pig wrote:Astoria Paranoia wrote:File out the caliper.
You might introduce rotor wobble with washers.
Moar shimz!!
Anyone who had old Hopes will have shit loads of caliper shim washers.
by AgrAde on Tue 16/Aug/16 9:13pm
by el_booto on Tue 16/Aug/16 11:20pm
by Percy Pig on Tue 16/Aug/16 11:45pm
Wobbler wrote:Percy Pig wrote:Astoria Paranoia wrote:File out the caliper.
You might introduce rotor wobble with washers.
Moar shimz!!
Anyone who had old Hopes will have shit loads of caliper shim washers.
and tinnitus
AgrAde wrote:Shims for a post mount caliper?
I've shimmed out a rotor with thin washers before. Had no issues. They weren't shit stamped ones with heaps of deformation though, nice and flat, but I don't think that would make a difference with the torques that you do a rotor up to. Might pay to use a locking compound on the surfaces so you can be certain you're not relying on on the bolt shear?
by AgrAde on Wed 17/Aug/16 12:20am
by dwgknz on Fri 19/Aug/16 11:09pm
by happybaboon on Fri 19/Aug/16 11:42pm
by shmoodiver on Sat 20/Aug/16 8:08am
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