Turd To Trackie - Part 1

Postby Rik on Tue 10/Feb/15 3:30pm

I was chatting to SlowMTB the other day and knowing I have an occasional inclination towards old Raleighs he offered me an Raleigh Team 12 he had liberated from a roadside giveaway. I was initially hesitant, but as he reminded me, the price was right, so I wasn't going to look this gift horse in the mouth. I deal was done, and pick-up quickly arranged

DSC_0341.jpg
Taken of her 'good side'


The sun had not been kind to her, the decals had almost been completely bleached out on one side. The photos don't do justice the texture of the paintwork, think 200 grit. The chain was frozen in time, locked into the position it was when the crank last turned. Which was probably a long time ago because the crank wouldn't turn without the help of a number 10 'persuader'. Even with the thickest of rose tinted glasses, there was now avoiding the fact this bike was a turd.

DSC_0343.jpg
Chain lube eanyone?

DSC_0344.jpg
I wander what living in the saddle?

DSC_0345.jpg
Comes with a free cable lock!

DSC_0346.jpg
I sure a jubilee clip wasn't from the factory.




I couldn't wait to get these photos taken so I could get stuck into removing all the rotten bits, before they infected anything else in the garage.

I figured the quickest route to get it back up rolling on it's wheels was to single speed it. I also fancy a trying my hand at some track racing, just 'cus. So what the hell lets fixie it. Come the winter it may get some brakes and a freewheel and become a winter commuter, but lets not get ahead of ourselves here. Theres a tonne of work ahead just to get it just rolling, let alone rolling under power.

I opened the lid the red bin in readiness and started the strip down.

The chain was broken without the need for a hacksaw, a good start. The hacksaw did however have to come out to remove the shift levels from the down tube. The square taper crank arms pulled off okay (once I'd remembered to remove the crank bolts, lol), quickly followed by the bottom bracket, followed by no more than a handfull of ball bearings, and a lot of brown powder. A quick snip at all the cables to allow the the clean removal of the derailuers and brake callipers. Almost everything came off relatively easily and quickly enough, right up to the bit I was dreading. The handlebar stem. The three fatal ingredients where all there aluminium, steal and time. The quill has dropped out okay, but the stem won't budge.

DSC_0363.jpg
After strip down


So to date I have tried the following to liberate the stem from its bonds:

Soaked it in CRC overnight
Soaked it in Pepsi overnight.
Hit it down from the top.
Hit it up from the bottom.
Hit if from the side.

The head bearings look to be okay, so for now I've just re-packed them with grease, but would really like to give them a full strip and clean, So any ideas on how to shift the stem?
Rik
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Re: Turd To Trackie - Part 1

Postby Wobbler on Tue 10/Feb/15 3:46pm

Fork looks bent mayhaps?
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Re: Turd To Trackie - Part 1

Postby Rik on Tue 10/Feb/15 3:59pm

Wobbler wrote:Fork looks bent mayhaps?


Another good reason to remove the forks
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Re: Turd To Trackie - Part 1

Postby ChumlyPogward on Tue 10/Feb/15 4:43pm

If you need them have a set of forks that will fit ok (assuming the trail etc looks ok) - you can have them if you pay postage from Nelson....
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Re: Turd To Trackie - Part 1

Postby Simonius_Titius on Tue 10/Feb/15 5:37pm

You might need to wash out the CRC with solvent before you can attack the aluminium with Coke.

The bent fork may now have an offset more suitable for track use than the original.
The Raleigh Team 12 fork has the large (50mm or more) offset typical of the 27" wheeled 10 speed era. I guess it would also have the slack head angle that went with that. It was a general purpose bike, not a racer of any kind.

To keep the ground clearance for the fixed crank keeping the 27" rear wheel will help.
Reducing the front to a skinny 700c will drop the front by 6mm, dunno if that's enough to steepen the head tube and reduce the trail significantly.

Is the original BB symmetrical? The old ones often had extra length on the drive side.

PM if you need bits in Chch. Also I've got the tool for realigning fork ends after plank therapy if you're too snooty to use a Crescent spanner.
Last edited by Simonius_Titius on Tue 10/Feb/15 6:38pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Turd To Trackie - Part 1

Postby Henry Dorset Case on Tue 10/Feb/15 6:14pm

I would flip it upside down and put two sides of the top nut in a vise then twist the forks with a big fuckoff bit of steel. Assuming the forks are sacrificial of course. Welcome to do it at my place if you like. I have a vice and I think it would fit

You have budgeted for a new headset anyway, right?
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Re: Turd To Trackie - Part 1

Postby Oli on Tue 10/Feb/15 7:56pm

Or just hacksaw the stem off at the top nut of the headset, then undo the headset and voila. You can then access the stem stump in a variety of ways, but bent shitty hi-tensile steel forks like that aren't worth the risk of riding them again, in my opinion.
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Re: Turd To Trackie - Part 1

Postby shmoodiver on Tue 10/Feb/15 8:27pm

Oli wrote:Or just hacksaw the stem off at the top nut of the headset, then undo the headset and voila. You can then access the stem stump in a variety of ways, but bent shitty hi-tensile steel forks like that aren't worth the risk of riding them again, in my opinion.


I sacrificed a set of colnago 1" steerer steel forks for the cinelli stem that sits in your collection..... forks were poked tho so...
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Re: Turd To Trackie - Part 1

Postby Oli on Tue 10/Feb/15 9:41pm

:love:
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Re: Turd To Trackie - Part 1

Postby Rik on Tue 10/Feb/15 10:25pm

Simonius_Titius wrote:You might need to wash out the CRC with solvent before you can attack the aluminium with Coke.

The bent fork may now have an offset more suitable for track use than the original.
The Raleigh Team 12 fork has the large (50mm or more) offset typical of the 27" wheeled 10 speed era. I guess it would also have the slack head angle that went with that. It was a general purpose bike, not a racer of any kind.

To keep the ground clearance for the fixed crank keeping the 27" rear wheel will help.
Reducing the front to a skinny 700c will drop the front by 6mm, dunno if that's enough to steepen the head tube and reduce the trail significantly.

Is the original BB symmetrical? The old ones often had extra length on the drive side.

PM if you need bits in Chch. Also I've got the tool for realigning fork ends after plank therapy if you're too snooty to use a Crescent spanner.


Interesting ideas about speeding up the steering. I have another set of near period forks with about 10mm less trail and are about 10mm lower. I may have to resort to Oli's 'nuclear' option and cut the stem.
Rik
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Re: Turd To Trackie - Part 1

Postby mfw on Tue 10/Feb/15 10:39pm

'bout time we had a project bike thread :thumbsup:

You have 6 weeks to get it ready in time for LeRace, you can enter 'Envormation vintage cup' category :thumbsup:
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Re: Turd To Trackie - Part 1

Postby slowMTB on Sat 20/Jun/15 7:42pm

Any progress on this Rik?

I got my one going before you too :p
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Re: Turd To Trackie - Part 1

Postby Rik on Sat 20/Jun/15 8:55pm

Rik
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