Oh noes, ones of those guys has a peak, the shame

cauld wrote:Bike wise you'll just want a fixed gear bike and drop style bars and that'll pretty much get you on the track. You will need to be sure you have bolt up wheels- QRs not likely to be allowed on any track I know of.

Any restrictions on cat 2/1 as to what wheels you can use?
More specifically deep section carbon rims

Only restrictions are for U15 and U17 riders in terms of use of carbon wheels. Doesn't stop them riding Zen's and BTs

cauld wrote:You will need to be sure you ahve bolt up wheels- QRs not likely to be allowed on any track I know of.

You can purchase a pair of allen key skewers for not much, which will replace the q/r. Cheap fix, and you can then run any wheels.

I have a couple of other questions I'm hoping can get answered here.
- I'll be mainly (95%+ of the time) using my track bike at Hataitai velo, which is outside and concrete. Is it a good idea to run a rear disc all the time, or should I just invest in deep profile rims? Disc, or no disc rear?
- What specific tubular tyres are most people using on concrete velos? What's good?
- What size crank length are most using? I'm thinking 167.5mm might be the best option for myself. Is anyone able to shed some light on this? I've heard it's personal preference?

I'll probably just be doing the mass start races.

I would suggest a set of deep section wheels for Haitaitai but I think a lot of people use disc wheels there. For general racing I would go with a 22mm profile tubular. The Continental Tempos seem to go good. Rules of thumb for crank length are shorter spin up faster and longer provide more leverage. Shorter cranks are in vogue for pursuiting as they allow you to achieve a better flat back position.

Thanks for the info fergie, I was kinda hoping you'd reply.
I was considering between the Continental Tempo or the Vittoria Pista Evo CS 2, so that's good news about the Tempo.

Also, what cranks would you suggest?
I'm pretty keen on the Sram Omniums, due to their external bearing design and supposed stiffness. I've also considered dura ace and campag. I had sugino 75s and found them good, though.

Dura Ace, Campy or Sugino 75s are all good. Sugino offer best value for money. 1 1/8th chainrings, sprockets (Dura Ace) and Izumi chains. Chainrings from 46-53 and sprockets from 13-15.

Full discs can be a handful on the rough surface of Hataitai.

I was thinking the wind could be a factor there too, though it's relatively sheltered for wellington

pinkmaggit wrote:I was thinking the wind could be a factor there too, though it's relatively sheltered for wellington

No offence PM, but for "probaly just doing mass start" races, why are you bothering to spend massive amounts of readies. Run wot you brung, and then "when" you get some real pace, upgrade from there. If you can't perform on average wheels, then 5k wheesets aren't gonna make fark all difference.
Just saying.

why not do it right the first time instead of buying wheels and having to replace them? I've bought stuff before and then upgraded quickly which ends up wasting money.

pinkmaggit wrote:why not do it right the first time instead of buying wheels and having to replace them? I've bought stuff before and then upgraded quickly which ends up wasting money.

Rock ya fashion wheels, and when you start beating me, buy them then.

I just personally think that dropping that amount of c-ash on wheels when learning and playing is just silly.
Buy your sisters kids some rad pressies instead

Can you race track on a regular road bike?.. with gears, non fixie etc