Well everything else has it's own thread, and with the looming CX champs in a couple of months. I thought it prudent we start a thread

So I'll get the ball rolling, yes I know I've sent a pxt through already. BUT this is the completed bike, complete with changes already!

The frame is an old Diamond Back Interval TG steel frame, that has been modified by David Benson by having canti mounts brazed on, and the fork was changed for a Taiwanese steel CX fork. I have the frame on loan from a good mate until I get myself something new and exciting.

I have built it up with stuff I had lying around as all good CX bikes should be.

105 7sp drivetrain 50/39 and a 13/26 cassette.
RSX STI levers.
XTR M900 1st gen Cantilever brakes with XT cartridge pads.
Shimano HG50 rear hub and Campy rims 36 hole DB spokes.
Suntour 7000 front hub and Campy rim 36 hole DB spokes.
Conti Speed King 700 x 35 CX tyres, due to the use of a modified road frame I hope I don't buckle my wheel or get too clogged with mud!
FSA Compact Bar and stem combo.
Serfas Flite copy Kevlar saddle re covered and embroided.

Enjoy.

AWESOME!

I just need to sort the saddle position a bit, which is easy.

I'll take it out on Sunday for a ride

Seems a shame to cover that seat with your butt.

Love the old XTR cantis.

I'll play. Titanium goodness, Campy 10 speed ergo levers mated to a Shimano 9 speed transmission thanks to the Jtek Shiftmate, cheap Dimension steel fork, mullet braking - all business up front and sketchy out back (now discs at both ends). Lovely.

blingpusher wrote:I'll play. Titanium goodness, Campy 10 speed ergo levers mated to a Shimano 9 speed transmission thanks to the Jtek Shiftmate, cheap Dimension steel fork, mullet braking - all business up front and sketchy out back (now discs at both ends). Lovely.

Looks mint! Puts mine to shame

How do you find traction with discs on the CX tyres?

I had a Bianchi volpe for a while.
It got around a bit.
Here it is in germany and fiji.

blingpusher wrote:I'll play. Titanium goodness, Campy 10 speed ergo levers mated to a Shimano 9 speed transmission thanks to the Jtek Shiftmate, cheap Dimension steel fork, mullet braking - all business up front and sketchy out back (now discs at both ends). Lovely.

Mmm would love a titanium frame. interesting set up with the disk brakes, I take it they must be mechanical disk brakes with drop bars?

Here's mine too,

Stigmata Frame Alpha Q Fork
105 Shfters & Rear mech
Ultegra Sl Crank 34/46 & Front mech
Hope Pro III hubs DT 1.1 Rims Revolution Spokes 32h tied and soldered Maxxis Raze Tyres
12/27 Cassette
Just under 20 lbs

Loads of fun, I had forgotten how much I like Cross bikes

More of this one and a Niner Monster cross @ http://basicbikes.wordpress.com/

Why did you tie and solder the wheels?

On street tyres in the phot prior to going around the big puddle. usually on conti twisters when off road.

Cotic Roadrat, BB7's, WTB dual duty on hope pro2, 45 single front ring, 11-22 rear cluster, Mungo bars and some other general stuffs.

Will be single speeded for winter, and the upcoming CX race in Upper Hutt.

Chickenman wrote:How do you find traction with discs on the CX tyres?

I ride quite a lot on the road and discs are awesome in that situation, particularly when the bike is loaded for touring. In the wet offroad on skinny little tires there's certainly more brake power than traction put I find the BB7 road discs have really nice modulation and I've never had any problems. It was more of an issue when I had a canti on the rear and the disc up front, pulling one lever to the bar and feathering the other felt a bit weird.

Oli wrote:Why did you tie and solder the wheels?

I'm just under 90 kg and while revolutions are plenty strong there is more flex. Tie and solder to increase effective flange diameter and add stiffness back for a small weight gain. There is a noticeable increase in stiffness, the wheel fells "snappier" (for want of a better word) I've been doing it for wheels with revolutions and XL15's for a while, after re learning the procedure. As you will know its a forgotten art which I'm convinced can be a benefit in some builds. All the riders that have a pair of tied wheels we've done have come back for more!

blingpusher wrote:

Chickenman wrote:How do you find traction with discs on the CX tyres?

I ride quite a lot on the road and discs are awesome in that situation, particularly when the bike is loaded for touring. In the wet offroad on skinny little tires there's certainly more brake power than traction put I find the BB7 road discs have really nice modulation and I've never had any problems. It was more of an issue when I had a canti on the rear and the disc up front, pulling one lever to the bar and feathering the other felt a bit weird.

Sweet!

BTW what CX frames do you stock that would be suitable for me (540tt)?

Excuse my ignorance, but I haven't spoken to ya in a long time

Simpleone wrote:

Oli wrote:Why did you tie and solder the wheels?

I'm just under 90 kg and while revolutions are plenty strong there is more flex. Tie and solder to increase effective flange diameter and add stiffness back for a small weight gain. There is a noticeable increase in stiffness, the wheel fells "snappier" (for want of a better word) I've been doing it for wheels with revolutions and XL15's for a while, after re learning the procedure. As you will know its a forgotten art which I'm convinced can be a benefit in some builds. All the riders that have a pair of tied wheels we've done have come back for more!

I think he was more taking the mickey out of your terminology. As I'm sure Oli (like myself and you) would tie and solder the spokes It's just the way you have worded the original post, that's not entirely clear.