musket wrote:Just need to glue tyres and set calipers

Very nice
That looks like a huge rear sprocket. What size?
Also, why not a crown mounted front brake cable stop? It would eliminate the chance of brake judder.

A crown would eliminate the chance, yes, but I'm yet to have any problem with it. If it is an issue, I'll address it then.

I'm got a 39x22 on there - though have 19/20/21 also. The course this week is apparently very steep, so I'll see. A change is easy enough after a pre ride.

musket wrote:Just need to glue tyres and set calipers

zomg, want

Done.

fully sick

BOSS

how much do those tyres cost

That is sick.

My guess for the tires would be around 200NZD..... each

That's about right - but all things considered, that's the same price as a decent quality road tubular.

Man, I taught myself a few lessons about CX today. Chiefly, if you're turning hard on steep stuff, do not apply brake. I went in to a corner pretty hard (dropping between trees and had to hit brake for a rider in front. Peeled the tub off. Not totally, only about 15%. I popped it back in place and got another lap and a half out before a big rutted section coincided with that part of the wheel / tread being down. Popped it, but again, put it back on and managed to get a new wheel. Pretty much one of those inevitable results (even with 4 nice coats of glue of tub and rim each, with good time to cure) if you insist on riding a cross bike with tubs like a mountainbike.

I was pretty happy with how I went - about the same as last race, even with a long wheel change (bloody SRAM levers have no qr button, and I'd opted to run the pads a touch close.

The gearing was about right. Sucked all the time.

Bike was sweet, very cool to ride, and also very different to the Moots. The course was a bastard - really long laps with one nasty climb, so basically no recovering as the descent traversed the hill before a little climb again.

All in all, a very good day out.

Is there a way to have the bar top levers as an option and swap them in and out as required? Like can you cut the brake cable outer to run the bar top levers, then put in a joiner (or something) when you don't want the bar top levers? Would one of those inline cable adjusters work this way??

I noticed Musket mentioned chucking some bar top levers on for a particular race and was wondering if he ran new cables and rewrapped the bar, or had some other simple solution.

Mel wrote:I noticed Musket mentioned chucking some bar top levers on for a particular race and was wondering if he ran new cables and rewrapped the bar, or had some other simple solution.

Musket's a special case. He just replaces his bike each time it gets dirty.

it's funny cause it's true!

Mel wrote:Is there a way to have the bar top levers as an option and swap them in and out as required? Like can you cut the brake cable outer to run the bar top levers, then put in a joiner (or something) when you don't want the bar top levers? Would one of those inline cable adjusters work this way??

I noticed Musket mentioned chucking some bar top levers on for a particular race and was wondering if he ran new cables and rewrapped the bar, or had some other simple solution.

I guess in theory you could use inline adjusters and pre cut second lengths of housing, but you'd need to remove the cable each time (and they tend to fray if this is done loads).

Why not find some nice low profile ones and leave them on?