Re: Sharp End - Climbing Video Teaser + Freebase Climbing

Postby Tama on Tue 26/May/09 9:28am

mundi wrote:A friend of mine just got the sharp end on DVD, man its nuts! Gets the heart racing for sure! Defifnitly worth a watch if you get the chance.

Where did he get it from? Did he order it online?
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Re: Sharp End - Climbing Video Teaser + Freebase Climbing

Postby mundi on Tue 26/May/09 3:53pm

Hmm, He got it in Vancouver, not sure if it was online or not. Will ask him and report back.
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Re: Sharp End - Climbing Video Teaser + Freebase Climbing

Postby mundi on Tue 26/May/09 6:18pm

Indeed it was purchased at MEC in Vancouover. They have a website but dont know if they deliver internationally.
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Re: Sharp End - Climbing Video Teaser + Freebase Climbing

Postby danose on Tue 26/May/09 7:55pm

you can get it out of the UK (along with lots of quality non-US stuff ;) )

http://www.posingproductions.com/produc ... gory_id=18
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Re: Sharp End - Climbing Video Teaser + Freebase Climbing

Postby bigJIMMY on Tue 26/May/09 9:42pm

that bloke is my hero. holy mother........... and i thought dan osman was god.

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Re: Sharp End - Climbing Video Teaser + Freebase Climbing

Postby CrustyMTB on Tue 26/May/09 9:51pm

I did a bunch of solo stuff on grit when it was pointless to waste time and energy pretending the route was protectable. There were some truly memorable moments on froggat slabs, when the mind would go,"whoops no rope!!"

But Dean Potter is a crazy legend, to free solo some of the bigwall (like Halfdome regular route) is almost inconceiveable to me, I just about shat myself aiding and on those walls, let alone freeing that stuff without a rope. A whole other realm of mental strength. And it's never going to be a safe proposition, remember Derek Hersey?

Dan Orsman was an idiot, his death was due to a pathetic failure to check his gear.
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Re: Sharp End - Climbing Video Teaser + Freebase Climbing

Postby thelivo on Tue 26/May/09 10:14pm

Hmmm - i have a problem with freebase the idea of freebase climbing.
Quite often (i'd suggest most of the time) i think when you fall off rock climbing you don't come off in a nice belly to earth fashion. For example, that shot in the video looks pretty set up, or at least, when he made the move he half expected to come off and was preparing himself for that, which means he didn't commit to the climbing move itself.

Any climbers care to comment?
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Re: Sharp End - Climbing Video Teaser + Freebase Climbing

Postby danose on Wed 27/May/09 8:49am

thelivo wrote:Any climbers care to comment?


yep - you're WRONG. Generally in climbing it's very very rare you just 'pop' off a move, you usually have plenty of warning, and hence it's perfectly feasible to come off clean (in Potters case to get a survivable launch, for most climbers to get a clean, feet first fall).

I can count on one hand the number of times I've taken totally unexpected, un-setup falls (and in one of those cases I came to a halt holding what was previously a hold in both hands)
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Re: Sharp End - Climbing Video Teaser + Freebase Climbing

Postby Henry Dorset Case on Wed 27/May/09 11:43am

danose wrote:
thelivo wrote:Any climbers care to comment?


yep - you're WRONG. Generally in climbing it's very very rare you just 'pop' off a move, you usually have plenty of warning, and hence it's perfectly feasible to come off clean (in Potters case to get a survivable launch, for most climbers to get a clean, feet first fall).

I can count on one hand the number of times I've taken totally unexpected, un-setup falls (and in one of those cases I came to a halt holding what was previously a hold in both hands)


ooooh, strong. you ripped it from the wall through sheer strength of will, and the use of the force....
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Re: Sharp End - Climbing Video Teaser + Freebase Climbing

Postby thelivo on Wed 27/May/09 3:18pm

danose wrote:
thelivo wrote:Any climbers care to comment?


yep - you're WRONG. Generally in climbing it's very very rare you just 'pop' off a move, you usually have plenty of warning, and hence it's perfectly feasible to come off clean (in Potters case to get a survivable launch, for most climbers to get a clean, feet first fall).

I can count on one hand the number of times I've taken totally unexpected, un-setup falls (and in one of those cases I came to a halt holding what was previously a hold in both hands)


OK fair enough - my only thought was a feet first fall is often roughly the attitude you are on the wall, whereas a belly to earth clean exit with a push to clear any sticky outy bits is pretty much the exact opposite, and unless you get that you are pretty much dead anyway

They just better pray no-one falls off in the first 2 or 3 hundred feet!
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Re: Sharp End - Climbing Video Teaser + Freebase Climbing

Postby danose on Wed 27/May/09 5:13pm

Henry Dorset Case wrote:ooooh, strong. you ripped it from the wall through sheer strength of will, and the use of the force....


nah - just an occupational hazard of trying to bag an early repeat of a route at britten - the good but loose holds hadn't all fallen off yet :D
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Re: Sharp End - Climbing Video Teaser + Freebase Climbing

Postby Purple_Helmet on Wed 27/May/09 8:49pm

bigJIMMY wrote:.......... and i thought dan osman was god.


Holy shit. Is he still alive?
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Re: Sharp End - Climbing Video Teaser + Freebase Climbing

Postby CrustyMTB on Wed 27/May/09 9:44pm

Purple_Helmet wrote:
bigJIMMY wrote:.......... and i thought dan osman was god.


Holy shit. Is he still alive?
Died around 2000(?) he was trying to break his own record for the longest ever lead fall (on a specially made rope with half cut qd's and screamers) on the west face of the leaning tower at Yosemite (the thing overhangs continously for 850m, a fun wall to climb) he set up but didn't make the attempt cause of strong winds, left the gear in place for few days(? could have been longer) while a storm was on. He came back and did the jump, and some of the main anchor gear had frayed due to wind and granite action and he fell 850m to a messy death... Kind of like basejumping without checking your chute, or downhilling with no brakes, dumb...
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Re: Sharp End - Climbing Video Teaser + Freebase Climbing

Postby danose on Wed 27/May/09 9:59pm

CrustyMTB wrote:Died around 2000(?) he was trying to break his own record for the longest ever lead fall (on a specially made rope with half cut qd's and screamers) on the west face of the leaning tower at Yosemite (the thing overhangs continously for 850m, a fun wall to climb) he set up but didn't make the attempt cause of strong winds, left the gear in place for few days(? could have been longer) while a storm was on. He came back and did the jump, and some of the main anchor gear had frayed due to wind and granite action and he fell 850m to a messy death... Kind of like basejumping without checking your chute, or downhilling with no brakes, dumb...


jeez crusty, I expect better from you! that's so far from the actual truth it's cringe inducing!

http://outside.away.com/magazine/0499/9904terminal.html

and Chris from bdels analysis of the rope failure - basically it looked like in hurrying to get one last jump in (bigger than all the rest) he ended up getting the rope running over rigging and melted it - a simple technical fubar

http://www.mundovertical.com/tecnica/ro ... alysis.pdf
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Re: Sharp End - Climbing Video Teaser + Freebase Climbing

Postby CrustyMTB on Wed 27/May/09 10:12pm

danose wrote:
CrustyMTB wrote:Died around 2000(?) he was trying to break his own record for the longest ever lead fall (on a specially made rope with half cut qd's and screamers) on the west face of the leaning tower at Yosemite (the thing overhangs continously for 850m, a fun wall to climb) he set up but didn't make the attempt cause of strong winds, left the gear in place for few days(? could have been longer) while a storm was on. He came back and did the jump, and some of the main anchor gear had frayed due to wind and granite action and he fell 850m to a messy death... Kind of like basejumping without checking your chute, or downhilling with no brakes, dumb...


jeez crusty, I expect better from you! that's so far from the actual truth it's cringe inducing!

http://outside.away.com/magazine/0499/9904terminal.html

and Chris from bdels analysis of the rope failure - basically it looked like in hurrying to get one last jump in (bigger than all the rest) he ended up getting the rope running over rigging and melted it - a simple technical fubar

http://www.mundovertical.com/tecnica/ro ... alysis.pdf
It was an avoidable fuck up, much like my dodgy memory...
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