Removing A Square Taper Crank Arm

Postby Tonykeneth on Sun 10/Jul/11 1:18am

Is it possible to remove a square taper crank arm with out the proper crank puller tool safely with out damaging anything as this is a new crank set. The reason being for this is i brought this crank set a few months ago riding single disc now have decided to run triples and dont really want to have to buy the crank puller tool if i can help it.
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Re: Removing A Square Taper Crank Arm

Postby musket on Sun 10/Jul/11 1:21am

Unbelievably the LOCAL BIKE SHOP has these. For a very small fee, they'll remove them for you.
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Re: Removing A Square Taper Crank Arm

Postby happybaboon on Sun 10/Jul/11 1:22am

Nah, don't try it. You'll get sweaty and angry, waste an hour or so, and probably damage something. All for a sub-$20 tool. :huh:
A friendly LBS where you buy a bit of stuff might be willing to pop cranks off for you if you ask nicely.
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Re: Removing A Square Taper Crank Arm

Postby dented on Sun 10/Jul/11 8:24am

Nah you should be a tightass, it has pleanty of benefits, including using a nice heavy ball-pien hammer on those cranks. Give it heaps!!!!
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Re: Removing A Square Taper Crank Arm

Postby slidecontrol on Sun 10/Jul/11 8:33am

16oz minimum, make sure you take a run up at it.
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Re: Removing A Square Taper Crank Arm

Postby great uncle bulgaria on Sun 10/Jul/11 4:40pm

I recommend the use of a ramset style device that "shoots" the carnk off

or the tool that the psychopath in "no country for old men " use to kill his victims

much more elegant than a hammer :thumbsup:
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Re: Removing A Square Taper Crank Arm

Postby MattV on Sun 10/Jul/11 4:47pm

I used to put the crank arm in a bench vice and then smack the frame off with a hammer.
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Re: Removing A Square Taper Crank Arm

Postby Simonius_Titius on Sun 10/Jul/11 6:44pm

First choice is establish or repair your relationship with your LBS.

2nd choice is do what you would do if the extractor threads were rooted:
Lube the spline with penetrating oil overnight, or CRC is faster. Remove the bolt so you can lube from the outside too. Reinstall bolt to finger tight, then back off until it is hardly touching. You need it in place both to stop the crank from pulling off too far and getting dented, and to detect that the crank is moving outwards.

Bounce on the cranks a few times, rotate half a turn, bounces, flip, repeat a few times. Try the bolts, hopefully one or more has tightened as the crank moves outwards. If so, retighten it and try to get the other one to move.
Install some wheels while doing this, to protect the chainring from bending.

Once both cranks are unfrozen gently bounce both cranks off together a tiny bit at a time, the idea is not to dent the square taper holes on the cranks.

You could get an assistant to apply some leverage with a couple of tomahawks or something while you bounce but be clear that the leverage is just assistance, don't try to pull the cranks off directly. The same applies if you did have a crank puller. Cranks can be pulled off directly if they come easily, but for tough jobs either the extractor threads or the puller will fail if you try to use the puller alone. Cheap cranks have very weak extractor threads.

If whacking anything, remember bearings don't like teh whackage. Frame tubes are thin, they can't be used to lever against.
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Re: Removing A Square Taper Crank Arm

Postby Tonykeneth on Sun 10/Jul/11 11:25pm

Thanks that is what i was looking for ill give it ago :)
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Re: Removing A Square Taper Crank Arm

Postby great uncle bulgaria on Sun 10/Jul/11 11:28pm

thats great that you are going to go and see your LBS - good decision :thumbsup:
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Re: Removing A Square Taper Crank Arm

Postby musta on Mon 11/Jul/11 12:15am

Buy a BBB crank remover tool.
Best $20 I have ever spent, you end up using them all the time
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Re: Removing A Square Taper Crank Arm

Postby ape on Mon 11/Jul/11 11:50am

If you do end up using a crank remover tool, make sure you use it right. incorrect use (not winding it out before installing) is about the easiest possible way to strip the threads in your crank. Oh. and grease is your friend...
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Re: Removing A Square Taper Crank Arm

Postby Henry Dorset Case on Mon 11/Jul/11 12:30pm

I use bacon fat. If you get stuck somewhere overnight (say your crank comes off unexpectedly) you can lick the bacon fat off and thus gain sustenance to see you through a long cold night.
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Re: Removing A Square Taper Crank Arm

Postby great uncle bulgaria on Mon 11/Jul/11 12:51pm

Henry Dorset Case wrote:I use bacon fat. If you get stuck somewhere overnight (say your crank comes off unexpectedly) you can lick the bacon fat off and thus gain sustenance to see you through a long cold night.


I definitely don't wish to know where you store your bacon fat prior to your stated glossal removal :blink:
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Re: Removing A Square Taper Crank Arm

Postby leglesscyclist on Mon 11/Jul/11 3:52pm

Simonius_Titius wrote:First choice is establish or repair your relationship with your LBS.

2nd choice is do what you would do if the extractor threads were rooted:
Lube the spline with penetrating oil overnight, or CRC is faster. Remove the bolt so you can lube from the outside too. Reinstall bolt to finger tight, then back off until it is hardly touching. You need it in place both to stop the crank from pulling off too far and getting dented, and to detect that the crank is moving outwards.

Bounce on the cranks a few times, rotate half a turn, bounces, flip, repeat a few times. Try the bolts, hopefully one or more has tightened as the crank moves outwards. If so, retighten it and try to get the other one to move.
Install some wheels while doing this, to protect the chainring from bending.

Once both cranks are unfrozen gently bounce both cranks off together a tiny bit at a time, the idea is not to dent the square taper holes on the cranks.

You could get an assistant to apply some leverage with a couple of tomahawks or something while you bounce but be clear that the leverage is just assistance, don't try to pull the cranks off directly. The same applies if you did have a crank puller. Cranks can be pulled off directly if they come easily, but for tough jobs either the extractor threads or the puller will fail if you try to use the puller alone. Cheap cranks have very weak extractor threads.

If whacking anything, remember bearings don't like teh whackage. Frame tubes are thin, they can't be used to lever against.




Dear god that is awesome. I'm playing the tape in my head where someone tries to get cranks off by bouncing on them, following these instructions and fails in myriad, painful and entertaining ways.
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