Getting Back Into Climbing After A Long Break

Postby Tama on Thu 16/Apr/09 10:06am

I went climbing for the first time in years with Butch last night. We rocked over to the Roxx: http://www.theroxx.co.nz/ which has a pretty impressive setup compared to the old walls I used in Wellington.

The whole experience was good but humbling - I used to climb regularly at Whanganui Bay in Lake Taupo about 8 years ago but last night I couldn't even remember how to belay properly. Everything I learnt back then is just a fuzzy memory and my climbing muscles are gone daddy gone.

Butch was quite inspiring as he's only been back at it for 6 weeks after a similar long break and was already busting out 18s. The best I could manage was cleaning a 13 (I believe 12 is climbing a flight of stairs :huh: ) and getting 2/3rds of the way up a 15 :(

It did get me all inspired again as I'm trying to setup alternative activities for when rain closes the Port Hill tracks and to stop me turning into a cycling hunchback.

Here's hoping for less flailing and more cleaning next time :thumbsup:
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Re: Getting Back Into Climbing After A Long Break

Postby danose on Thu 16/Apr/09 10:10am

Tama wrote:last night I couldn't even remember how to belay properly


did they even HAVE grigri's back in the dark ages though? :p

It did get me all inspired again as I'm trying to setup alternative activities for when rain closes the Port Hill tracks and to stop me turning into a cycling hunchback.


the bouldering/training room at the Y is a good (cheaper) alternative for those days you just feel like thrashing yourself (as opposed to doing routes) - about 1/2 the cost. Plus there's the Uni wall too (small but very nice panel system)
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Re: Getting Back Into Climbing After A Long Break

Postby Tama on Thu 16/Apr/09 10:18am

danose wrote:the bouldering/training room at the Y is a good (cheaper) alternative for those days you just feel like thrashing yourself (as opposed to doing routes) - about 1/2 the cost. Plus there's the Uni wall too (small but very nice panel system)

Yeah, I should check that out. I was thinking about breaking up the commute with the occasional hour of bouldering when it starts getting dark - but session prices have to be taken into account to make it worthwhile.

The YMCA is directly on my route home so could be a very good option: http://www.ymcachch.org.nz/climbing/

Oooo... the 3 month concession is looking rather tasty for the depths of winter :thumbsup:
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Re: Getting Back Into Climbing After A Long Break

Postby danose on Thu 16/Apr/09 12:17pm

Tama wrote:Oooo... the 3 month concession is looking rather tasty for the depths of winter :thumbsup:


yep - works well, also means you can nick in for a lunchtime workout at well :thumbsup: .

The roxx is now also offering 3 month unlimited trip concessions, bit dearer but not massively so.

other option with the Y is to take out a FULL years membership ($600) - which gives access to all the facilities (climbing wall, weights, squash, fitness etc) - so if you use all the stuff on offer quite good value.

for students the uni wall is a bargain - membership for the rec centre is $120/year, and that gets you UNLIMITED wall use :thumbsup:
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Re: Getting Back Into Climbing After A Long Break

Postby Henry Dorset Case on Thu 16/Apr/09 12:21pm

I will be back climbing next week. it was going to be today but I dont feel up for it.
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Re: Getting Back Into Climbing After A Long Break

Postby danose on Thu 16/Apr/09 1:00pm

Henry Dorset Case wrote:I will be back climbing next week. it was going to be today but I dont feel up for it.


we were meant to be at the roxx last night (sorry tama!) but the couch was calling :blush:

tonight it's a toss up between climbing and night riding (if it's warm and the wind isn't nutso)
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Re: Getting Back Into Climbing After A Long Break

Postby Butch on Thu 16/Apr/09 1:02pm

I had a think about it after I got home last night, and I reckon I FAR prefer the walls at the Y, as far as indoor climbing is chch goes. I still can't put my finger on why, but I think it's an atmosphere thing. Just seems a bit more relaxed there. Or maybe I'm just being nostalgic, I dunno. The fact that it's a bit cheaper doesn't hurt either I guess. And I agree with Danose, the boulder room setup there seems much better for some reason, even though it's much older.

If you start dropping in to the boulder room on the way home from work a few times a week Tama, you'll be busting out the big moves in notime. :thumbsup:
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Re: Getting Back Into Climbing After A Long Break

Postby danose on Thu 16/Apr/09 1:14pm

Butch wrote:the boulder room setup there seems much better for some reason, even though it's much older.


the training room at th Y is just that - it's not pretty, but was designed specifically for training (indeed the 'cave' section was designed specifically for training for the 'real cave').

The bouldering area at the roxx is much more appealing aesthetically, but lacks height (though I do like the new system board area)

if I was just going in bouldering/training - well I'll pick the Y every time

the lead walls are very different too - Y has lots of height, roxx has more 'natural features' but being a silly old fart I tend to forget about them and end up doing the routes on holds only (too many decades at the Y :blush: )

the million dollar question though - did the new miuras instantly make you climb 2 grades harder :)
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Re: Getting Back Into Climbing After A Long Break

Postby j2hyde on Thu 16/Apr/09 1:21pm

The best way to get back into it is to take 6 weeks off and go to Arapilies.
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Re: Getting Back Into Climbing After A Long Break

Postby DaveAldred on Thu 16/Apr/09 1:35pm

This Dawg used to climb a lot. Like a real lot. Since we had my daughter and I moved to NZ (Welly) this rockhound has not been out since Dec 07 for a proper go. I recently slimmed by rack down on TM. I had triples and some quadruple cam sets for long crack routes, not any more. Ah those were the days <insert long reminiscing stories here>. I keep considering getting rid of the rack I now have but I can't bring myself to do it.

When I think of what we used to do it scares the shit out of me now, as a parent.

One of the last outings I had before I left the UK, my good mate fell from a crux about 13m up and ripped a pair of wires out that previously we thought were bomber (only gear) and had even rested on before! He scrubbed some speed off by bouncing of a slab on the way down. Landed neatly inbetween two coffin shaped blocks that would have ended him, one of which I was stood on. He was quite fucked but after much coffee and TLC I walked him out OK. When I think about that event getting back into climbing after my long break doesn't appeal.

Maybe I should get into bouldering again, or even bolted routes. SO much safer.

Geez this thread brought back some memories.

take care - no chatter when tieing in. belaying and driving your car are the most dangerous things you can do.
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Re: Getting Back Into Climbing After A Long Break

Postby danose on Thu 16/Apr/09 1:40pm

j2hyde wrote:The best way to get back into it is to take 6 weeks off and go to Arapilies.



too many snakes! how about 6 weeks in the peak district instead (mmmmm.....gritstone)
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Re: Getting Back Into Climbing After A Long Break

Postby danose on Thu 16/Apr/09 1:42pm

DaveAldred wrote:belaying and driving your car are the most dangerous things you can do.


actually I reckon the approach can be just as dangerous - mate is recovering from a broken L1 and L5 caused whilst getting out of Jane Fonda :(
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Re: Getting Back Into Climbing After A Long Break

Postby rockyroad on Thu 16/Apr/09 1:59pm

Dave - Don't sell your gear!! (used to be a major climbing and everything else outdoory nut too in the UK)

We've just rediscovered ourselves after breeding and raising kids and have found some people we like in a similar postion -and by combining kid swaps and time swaps and holidays to the same place - but different accomodation, we are slowly clawing our passions back. Very much doubt we'll be as good as we used to be (Sigh) and really only have time to focus on one activity (at the mo it's Cycling) but it's great to have the chance to get in a kayak or out climbing etc and have a great day or half day out there once in a while. I think if we sold our kit (we very nearly did) it would have been too hard to get those oportunities.

Completely agree about the rustiness of safety - I'm constantly checking and re-checking everything.
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Re: Getting Back Into Climbing After A Long Break

Postby danose on Thu 16/Apr/09 2:06pm

rockyroad wrote:it's great to have the chance to get in a kayak or out climbing etc and have a great day or half day out there once in a while.


further down the track there's the option of taking the kids climbing too - several folks I know are now in the situation they can do that (yes, I am that old)

only downside is when the kids get keen and rapidly start out climbing their parents :angry:
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Re: Getting Back Into Climbing After A Long Break

Postby DaveAldred on Thu 16/Apr/09 2:10pm

I won't be selling the gear. I like the way it sits there in it's big box, exuding adventurous tall tales and potential...
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