When running these tubeless and the tyre goes flat after sitting around for too long, does the tyre detach from the beed?. r ... 
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Ztr Olympic Rims Question


 
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ThingOne
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PostPosted: Fri 19/Sep/08 4:44pm    Post subject: Ztr Olympic Rims Question Reply with quote Report Abuse

When running these tubeless and the tyre goes flat after sitting around for too long, does the tyre detach from the beed?. requring the usual swearing etc to remount it?.

I currently have Mavic UST rims and the tyre stays nicely on the beed and its easy to just pump up again with a track pump, im hoping the ZTRs are similar.

This is with non-ust tyes.
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Soba
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PostPosted: Fri 19/Sep/08 5:34pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Report Abuse

I can only speak for the 29er 355s, when they totally deflate the bead does detach for a few inches at the bottom, but pops straight back in again with no hassle at all.
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Monolith
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PostPosted: Fri 19/Sep/08 7:01pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Report Abuse

I've not had a worry with amy of the stans rim range, from 355s, to Olympics to Flows.
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Simonk
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PostPosted: Fri 19/Sep/08 7:07pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Report Abuse

I detatched the bead from an Olympic rim once - just enough to pour some fresh sealant in - and got it re-inflated with a floor pump OK.
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ThingOne
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PostPosted: Fri 19/Sep/08 7:09pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Report Abuse

with my UST rims I can usually with a bit of effort mount tyres with a track pump, is it any harder with the stans rims?.

Whats the weight of your 355's all made up Mono?
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Monolith
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PostPosted: Fri 19/Sep/08 7:21pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Report Abuse

No harder with stans over ust.

Weight of the Chris King/Stans 355 was 1590g.

FWIW, my DT 240s and Olympics are around 1390g. IMO the Olympic is a better rim for XC, and the 355 for slightly heavier duty stuff including trail riding.
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RHR_Rob
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PostPosted: Fri 19/Sep/08 7:30pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Report Abuse

You will probably find that the latex has dried on the bead meaning its not going anywhere. even when you realy need to get it off cos you have just had a puncture (it must be my luck but tubeless does puncture)

Got fed up with the whole latex tubeless palava and went back to tubes
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ThingOne
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PostPosted: Fri 19/Sep/08 7:41pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Report Abuse

Monolith wrote:
No harder with stans over ust.

Weight of the Chris King/Stans 355 was 1590g.

FWIW, my DT 240s and Olympics are around 1390g. IMO the Olympic is a better rim for XC, and the 355 for slightly heavier duty stuff including trail riding.


Im basically tossing up between ZTR's and Crossmaxes. You would have ridden both on your Anthem, much diff?
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Monolith
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PostPosted: Fri 19/Sep/08 7:51pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Report Abuse

Never rode the parcmax wheels, sorry.

For similar coin I'd look at a handbuilt wheelset over a prebuilt one.
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RHR_Rob
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PostPosted: Fri 19/Sep/08 9:17pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Report Abuse

I have ZTR olympic + WTB laserlite hubs & Crossmax.
Crossmax - have to keep servicing free hub, ALL spoke nipples now seized ($10 spoke if i break one) look nice though.
ZTR - lighter than crossmax, cheaper, never had a problem.

Have run both tubeless (work ok) things starts to get messy though (literally) when you want to change tyres, you have puncture, valve cores gradually sieze up with dried latex - gone back to tubes less mess.
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inzane
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PostPosted: Fri 19/Sep/08 9:44pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Report Abuse

I totally agree. Avoid the pre-built mavics and go for a good hand built on nice hubs. You can get better wheels for less $$
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ThingOne
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PostPosted: Fri 19/Sep/08 9:48pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Report Abuse

RHR_Rob wrote:
I have ZTR olympic + WTB laserlite hubs & Crossmax.
Crossmax - have to keep servicing free hub, ALL spoke nipples now seized ($10 spoke if i break one) look nice though.
ZTR - lighter than crossmax, cheaper, never had a problem.

Have run both tubeless (work ok) things starts to get messy though (literally) when you want to change tyres, you have puncture, valve cores gradually sieze up with dried latex - gone back to tubes less mess.


Thanks, I have been running tubeless for a couple of years without too much hassle.
It just I have the choice between ZTR's on XTR hubs or Crossmaxs on a new bike, no price difference. Now I know the Crossmaxes are worth more than the ZTRs, but im not too concerned about that, just want the best rims for me.
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SlackBoy
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PostPosted: Fri 19/Sep/08 11:49pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Report Abuse

Blink
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PostPosted: Sat 20/Sep/08 9:41am    Post subject: Reply with quote Report Abuse

ThingOne wrote:
RHR_Rob wrote:
I have ZTR olympic + WTB laserlite hubs & Crossmax.
Crossmax - have to keep servicing free hub, ALL spoke nipples now seized ($10 spoke if i break one) look nice though.
ZTR - lighter than crossmax, cheaper, never had a problem.

Have run both tubeless (work ok) things starts to get messy though (literally) when you want to change tyres, you have puncture, valve cores gradually sieze up with dried latex - gone back to tubes less mess.


Thanks, I have been running tubeless for a couple of years without too much hassle.
It just I have the choice between ZTR's on XTR hubs or Crossmaxs on a new bike, no price difference. Now I know the Crossmaxes are worth more than the ZTRs, but im not too concerned about that, just want the best rims for me.


The rims on the Crossmax are great... I've given mine hell and they've been great.
The rear hub... not so much. The freehub requires constant servicing, but if you're into that, it's all good. My biggest issue has been the lack of steering precision offered by the low spoke count setup. A standard set of 32 hole wheels feels a lot quicker on the way down... the Crossmax's just feel vague.
The front hub is fine though.

Paranoid
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