Spokes wrote:Worked it out, the pads are slightly tapered so as they wear they get wider. So they are hitting the rusty area away from the braking surface. So skim and pads. Just need to check rotor min width.
dented wrote:Spokes wrote:Worked it out, the pads are slightly tapered so as they wear they get wider. So they are hitting the rusty area away from the braking surface. So skim and pads. Just need to check rotor min width.
I'd be taking to the pads with an angle grinder if there is 2/3 of the life left....
dented wrote:Skimming is fine if they are still above min thickness when the job is finished. Although I really dont ever get it done just as a matter of course when replacing pads. IMO its one of those 'upsells' that is done far more frequently than necessary. Even discs that are a bit uneven (as is normal during wear), will just wear the new pads in to the same profile and perform perfectly normal for the duration of the pads.
Its when your car suffers from 'brake shudder' that new rotors (or a skim) are required. Generally caused by the rotors becoming warped from being overheated (generally caused by poor driving rather then racy driving, ie: descending the rimutuka hill in top gear all the way and over-using the brake pedal)
IMHO of course.
91 Users browsing this website: Butch, ChumlyPogward, Exabot [Bot], Google [Bot], Google Adsense [Bot], kona.stinky., Majestic-12 [Bot], MSN [Bot], MSNbot Media, nyquist, phantasim, psbot [Picsearch], Refrigerator, SimplePie [RSS], wachtourak, XCguy, Yahoo [Bot], znomit and 66 guests