blingpusher wrote:I'm building a 29er with a 440mm long non-suspension corrected rigid fork today, as it just so happens.

Sweet rig. How is the build coming along? Single Speed? Are you going to put lighter tyres on there?

JUANGEAR wrote:Sweet rig. How is the build coming along? Single Speed? Are you going to put lighter tyres on there?

Build is progressing at a modest pace. I have a feeling the Large might be a smidge small for me so I may need to procure an XL. I am currently debating the merits of different colours for bar tape, one of the joys of running drop bars. What are you trying to say about my 1400 gram tyres? Are you trying to say my tyres are fat?

Black bar tape, it is the only colour bar tape should be! I am not saying your tyres are fat....just, um, heavy like a pre cast concrete panel. Are Singular frames shorter in the TT than other big wheel bikes?

The Gryphon has a shorter top tube and a taller head tube (which is what makes it drop bar specific). The theory is that you should end up with your hands in the drops in about the same position as they would be on the grips on a conventional frame. The Swift has a longer top tube, about the same as the Niner frames. The Gryphon is also designed around the shorter (440mm) fork which makes it effectively a rigid only frame, whereas the rigid fork that comes with the Swift is of the longer "suspension corrected" variety. I had a wee ride on a Swift with a 120mm travel Reba up front the other day and was very pleasantly surprised at how nicely it handled with the (relatively) long fork. The Gryphon will be set up as a singlespeed, at least for the time being.

Tubeless woes on a 29er
Same one that I was working on before....
Problem is that the rims are drilled for schrader valves too, anyone got a solution or a suggestion?
Stan's strips that are in stock with the supplier are presta valve, so won't seal that great with the larger hole....

Mr_Bob wrote:Tubeless woes on a 29er
Same one that I was working on before....
Problem is that the rims are drilled for schrader valves too, anyone got a solution or a suggestion?
Stan's strips that are in stock with the supplier are presta valve, so won't seal that great with the larger hole....

Run the mavic schraeder to presta rim inserts, wrapped / rolled in a bit of shoe goo to seal the split in the sleeve and help seal. O-rings and old tube pieces each side with std presta tubeless valves.

Will be sweet.

musket wrote:

Mr_Bob wrote:Tubeless woes on a 29er
Same one that I was working on before....
Problem is that the rims are drilled for schrader valves too, anyone got a solution or a suggestion?
Stan's strips that are in stock with the supplier are presta valve, so won't seal that great with the larger hole....

Run the mavic schraeder to presta rim inserts, wrapped / rolled in a bit of shoe goo to seal the split in the sleeve and help seal. O-rings and old tube pieces each side with std presta tubeless valves.

Will be sweet.

Do you mean the lockring nut with a step in it that comes on a UST valve? or the part that looks like a plastic grommet that comes on new mavic rims?

The plastic grommet. Or, just sleeve a presta tubeless valve in rubber tape until it fits tight.

Standard Stans tape should work ok on it? it's an Alex XD-Lite rim, (OE spec off a Kiss) with a rim diameter of 622 x 18

You put a hole in the tape. So long as the hole is not bigger than it needs to be, it should be fine. Otherwise, a strip with modified valve stem.

Hey Guys,
Just got myself a 2010 gary fisher hifi delux any idea on the cheapist and best way to shread a few pounds off the boy? also the bars seem very wide 2" wider than my anthem bars and have a big sweep backwards would anyone advise to run straights? if not what would be the best to run? i thort maybe changing the rear cassette as it is a 970 to a 990 would this be a good idea? it has x7 shifters and x9 rear deraileur i just dont want to spend a fortune on it just easy ways to shread pounds really! did think of running tubeless in tyres as the rims are tubeless ready but again is this a wise move?

thanks for your input

Ben

Shayler wrote:Hey Guys,
Just got myself a 2010 gary fisher hifi delux any idea on the cheapist and best way to shread a few pounds off the boy? also the bars seem very wide 2" wider than my anthem bars and have a big sweep backwards would anyone advise to run straights? if not what would be the best to run? i thort maybe changing the rear cassette as it is a 970 to a 990 would this be a good idea? it has x7 shifters and x9 rear deraileur i just dont want to spend a fortune on it just easy ways to shread pounds really! did think of running tubeless in tyres as the rims are tubeless ready but again is this a wise move?

thanks for your input

Ben

crankset? Tyres?

When I upgraded a XT/LX level bike a couple of years ago, the cassette and crankset were two big weightsavers. I replaced the pedals, seatpost and stem too.

Nice thanks the tyres are Bontrager XDX 29x2.1 and crank set is Shimano FC-M542, Hollowtech arms.

Thanks

nice bike! i havn't riden one yet but i would really like to take one for a ride for a day.
from what i understand they are about 28lbs? guessing that the botranger wheels will be heavy, but that isn't exactly a cheap replacement..........

Shayler wrote:Hey Guys,
Just got myself a 2010 gary fisher hifi delux any idea on the cheapist and best way to shread a few pounds off the boy? also the bars seem very wide 2" wider than my anthem bars and have a big sweep backwards would anyone advise to run straights? if not what would be the best to run? i thort maybe changing the rear cassette as it is a 970 to a 990 would this be a good idea? it has x7 shifters and x9 rear deraileur i just dont want to spend a fortune on it just easy ways to shread pounds really! did think of running tubeless in tyres as the rims are tubeless ready but again is this a wise move?

thanks for your input

Ben

Post a current build list, hopefully I'll be able to put my weight weenie knowledge to some sensible use