Postby Datsane on Sun 27/Jul/08 11:48am

plummet wrote:either my maths are stuffed up or the LED's burn almost as bright on half power!.
Time warping to my tech days, Yes thats about right.
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Postby tartgrandmother on Sun 27/Jul/08 2:07pm

Slim wrote:
plummet wrote: ok i decided to time my battery to see how long before in goes flat.

i've 2 1 amp xre q5's wired in series and a buck puck driver i'm using a li-ion battery 11.1 v 2.2 amp hour

my maths tells me i should get around 3 hours out of these lights on full ra.

any way i'm running a dimmer and have backed off the dimmer until i notice a drop in light. I then turn it up slightly so its as bright as full power (well it looks the same).

my lights are still going 7 hours later.....

wholy long run time batman...

either my maths are stuffed up or the LED's burn almost as bright on half power!.



I am running 3 leds on a similar setup and get 5.5 hours on full noise.




what is the build cost of this set up?
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Postby znomit on Sun 27/Jul/08 2:31pm

Half power is around 60% lumens. Though your eyes don't see it as that much of a difference. Hard to pick 750mA vs 1A on different nights.
I went riding with my MTB light on half power... only really noticed because I wasn't seeing quite as far on the downhills. A few times I've been riding happily with various lights on medium power thinking I was on high.

Yeah, should be around 3 hrs with that setup.
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Postby plummet on Sun 27/Jul/08 3:05pm

sweet.

well i'll run the buggers at around 3/4 power. that way i'll get have now worries of batteries going flat during a ride.

the cost for my set up 2 on the head with battery and 2 on the bike with battery and battery charger
3hunge give or take a few dollars.
plummet
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Postby Datsane on Sun 27/Jul/08 9:41pm

tartgrandmother wrote:
Slim wrote:
plummet wrote: ok i decided to time my battery to see how long before in goes flat.

i've 2 1 amp xre q5's wired in series and a buck puck driver i'm using a li-ion battery 11.1 v 2.2 amp hour

my maths tells me i should get around 3 hours out of these lights on full ra.

any way i'm running a dimmer and have backed off the dimmer until i notice a drop in light. I then turn it up slightly so its as bright as full power (well it looks the same).

my lights are still going 7 hours later.....

wholy long run time batman...

either my maths are stuffed up or the LED's burn almost as bright on half power!.



I am running 3 leds on a similar setup and get 5.5 hours on full noise.




what is the build cost of this set up?
My set up one on the bars which I'm going to change to two, with two on the helmet. Plus the batteries and charger would have been between $120 - $180. Depends on type of LED's, batteries and the dollar at the time.
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Postby Slim on Sun 27/Jul/08 9:45pm

I am building a set of 2 for the bars and 2 for the head next

Just working on the shell design, am going to cnc machine them :)
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Postby Datsane on Sun 27/Jul/08 9:52pm

CNC thats getting fancy. You got a design in mind, I wanted to mill up something like the double shot cateye light (just lighter :lol:)
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Postby znomit on Sun 27/Jul/08 9:59pm

Slim wrote: I am building a set of 2 for the bars and 2 for the head next

Just working on the shell design, am going to cnc machine them :)


If you're doing that, please deign for cree MC-E, and put a price up :)
1500 odd lumens should make most people happy.
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Postby Slim on Sun 27/Jul/08 10:15pm

Datsane wrote: CNC thats getting fancy. You got a design in mind, I wanted to mill up something like the double shot cateye light (just lighter :lol:)



you will struggle to get lighter than the double shot because it is diecast, and doing something like that in a mill is expensive and time consuming.


CNC isn't fancy that fancy, there is about 15 of them outside my office window.
Slim
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Postby Datsane on Sun 27/Jul/08 10:19pm

Slim wrote:
Datsane wrote: CNC thats getting fancy. You got a design in mind, I wanted to mill up something like the double shot cateye light (just lighter :lol:)



you will struggle to get lighter than the double shot because it is diecast, and doing something like that in a mill is expensive and time consuming.


CNC isn't fancy that fancy, there is about 15 of them outside my office window.
I was going to mill them at home on the drill press. Its not fancy but does the job.
Casting something was/is another idea my brother in-law is going to or wants to build a smelt at home and would be easy to get to help.


Stop showing off.
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Postby znomit on Sun 27/Jul/08 10:22pm

Yeah I always wondered what it would cost to cast one. Cast the body and machine flat a face for mounting the leds. Theres people getting good money for crappy machined housings.

Though its hard to beat the nightlighning MR11 ... 100$ and sweet.
znomit
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Postby Datsane on Sun 27/Jul/08 10:24pm

If you want cheap then the round tube is hard to beat.

I'll biff up acouple of photos tomorrow of how I'm going to retro fit one.
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Postby Slim on Mon 28/Jul/08 7:45am

znomit wrote: Yeah I always wondered what it would cost to cast one. Cast the body and machine flat a face for mounting the leds. Theres people getting good money for crappy machined housings.

Though its hard to beat the nightlighning MR11 ... 100$ and sweet.



It would depend what you consider good money, CNC machining of custom product is not cheap. Draw and programme a shell probably 3 hours, setup the tools and machine 2 hours then machining the first one maybe 2hours, so thats probably $600 for the first one just in labour.

proper tooling to do a casting for that would be about 2 grand. Then about $40 each for the casting, more if your only doing one.
Slim
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Postby znomit on Sat 2/Aug/08 6:29pm

Just put this together for a commuter in chch.
Had everything but the switch lying around.
All up well under 30$.
1 inch aluminium housing.
The splashproof switches from jaycar made things easy. Small and don't have to mess around with rubber boots.


Its dynamo powered but you could replace the rectifier/capacitor with a driver. Make a good single led helmet light. Or a bloody good bar light with an MC-E.

Image

Image

Image
Oring mount. Rubber dental putty cast onto to the bars for a perfect fit.
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Postby Datsane on Sat 2/Aug/08 8:38pm

znomit wrote: Just put this together for a commuter in chch.
Had everything but the switch lying around.
All up well under 30$.
1 inch aluminium housing.
The splashproof switches from jaycar made things easy. Small and don't have to mess around with rubber boots.


Its dynamo powered but you could replace the rectifier/capacitor with a driver. Make a good single led helmet light. Or a bloody good bar light with an MC-E.
Whats the part number on that switch. Why don't you need a driver with the dynamo does it not produce enough current to need one?
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