Postby CleverNickName on Wed 28/May/08 4:56pm

at a guess you probably want this optic: http://cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut607
and the "XR-E (3x)Mounted on Triple PCB for MR11" on this page: http://cutter.com.au/products.php?cat=45
(assuming the housing is a 35mm MR11 size) and pick a driver board that has the features you want

this kit would probably work quite well for you: http://cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut756
you could even use the existing battery
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Postby Datsane on Wed 28/May/08 7:40pm

Being only 6volts you could run two LED's only give you abit more run and less heat sinking to worry about.
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Postby slidecontrol on Wed 28/May/08 9:50pm

this looks like a fun project foundation
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Postby CleverNickName on Thu 29/May/08 9:52am

slidecontrol wrote: this looks like a fun project foundation
looks like a similar concept to this, with 4 emitters on a single die.

might be hard to find an off the shelf driver that will supply enough current for one of those, looks like they run at about 3A
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Postby slidecontrol on Thu 29/May/08 10:18am

agreed on the driver issue, the main advantages of the XRE-mc is that the four segments are discrete, allowing the user connect them in whatever configuration they prefer and that the package is the same size is the other single type cree LEDs. allowing an almost direct retrofit to existing housings and optics :win:
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Now For Something A Little Different...

Postby znomit on Fri 30/May/08 9:57pm

Only recently finished my curtain rail lights, which are fantastic but 12AA batteries is a PITA.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/sho ... p?t=194093

Solution....
Dynamo power
I have one on my road bike and its nice to never worry about getting home before dark of running on low power because you're conserving batteries.
Dynamos put out around 500mA, a nice current level for a cree, or four.
And they are pretty efficient these days. The good ones draw 2w when the light is off, and about 50% efficient when on. So 12w of leg power = 5w of LED... 500lm :cool:

4 Cree R2 LEDs and medium MR11 optic from Cutter.
Housing from nightlightning. I usually make my own but a bit short on time these days.
Dynamo drive circuit from Martin at www.pilom.com

Mount and Dynamo from Crankit here in Palmy. Whenever I go in there and ask about Dynos they have exactly what I want.
I went with the older shimano dn70 because they had one in stock and I got a good deal on it.
If I rode the MTB a lot or competitively I'd look at a newer model (got a dn71 on the road bike). Probably a nicer bike too!

All I had to fabricate was the aluminium bracket between cateye mounts and lighthead,
and put a switch hole in the plastic cap that stops the steerer tube top.

Image

Thats the on/off button on top of the steerer tube.
Heres whats inside:
Some scary electronics that switch between different modes at high and low speed. You can build a simple manual circuit for about 20$ but when you slow below 10kph you need to hit a switch. The scary electronics do this automagically.

Image
My steerer tube has a taper near the bottom so the board wont fall through... capacitors hang below it, still within the tube.
The dyno wires and LED wires run out the bottom (LED via connector).

And heres the business end:
Image

Output is enough to see by at walking speed and ramps smoothly up to 650lm at 20kph!

Cost was about 500 all up. It helped buying things a little at a time!
Should last forever, never have to rebuild a battery pack, never miss a ride opportunity because the battery isn't charged.
And hopefully 650lm is enough to stop me from wanting to upgrade every few months!
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Postby slidecontrol on Fri 30/May/08 10:39pm

love your work :thumbsup:

your builds on mtbr are great to follow
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Postby shredder13 on Sat 31/May/08 8:21pm

cd wrote:
pb wrote:
cd wrote:
pb wrote:
Datsane wrote:
ReignMan wrote: yeah, i thought 1000mA was max for these puppies.
They have 3Watt LEDs now.

10W from a single emitter. :thumbsup:
http://www.acriche.com/en/product/prd/zpowerLEDp7.asp


.....yer I put a couple of those P7s together in a light last week ;)

my 13watt HID look dull by comparison

those P7 LEDs rule :exclaim:


What optics are you using? Am I correct in thinking the emitter of the P7 is of larger diameter to the P4?


I used these reflectors http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4586,
mainly because I had some, they were easy to mount and I was keen to see them light up right now, ;)

when/if I get time I am keen to experiment with other reflector/optic options

and yes the P7 is a bigger emitter than the P4, I had to ream out the reflector to about 8.5mm and grind a bit of the back to get a good fit over the P7,
however the P7 and P4 star are the same size . :thumbsup:


What are you using to run them? Have you found any drivers to get them up to full noise?
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Member for: 14 years 7 months

Postby slidecontrol on Sat 31/May/08 9:59pm

i spent the morning being the gopher at my LBS today, and got to have to have a play with the Hope Vision 4 light unit.

very impressive in the flesh. t has given me a new target for my next build.
my early plan was to retrofit my existing build with a quad R2 setup. However with the inception of the XR-E-mc types, it should be doable using a "double" type setup.

whatcha think folks?
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Postby znomit on Sat 31/May/08 10:59pm

shredder13 wrote:
What are you using to run them? Have you found any drivers to get them up to full noise?


P7 driver at kaidomain
http://www.kaidomain.com/WEBUI/ProductD ... ranID=4338
Though no dimming may lead to a few heat problems!

I have one, gonna hook up a lava lamp with it because my bikes are sorted.
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Member for: 12 years 5 months

Postby cd on Sun 1/Jun/08 3:15am

shredder13 wrote:
cd wrote:
pb wrote:
cd wrote:
pb wrote:
Datsane wrote:
ReignMan wrote: yeah, i thought 1000mA was max for these puppies.
They have 3Watt LEDs now.

10W from a single emitter. :thumbsup:
http://www.acriche.com/en/product/prd/zpowerLEDp7.asp


.....yer I put a couple of those P7s together in a light last week ;)

my 13watt HID look dull by comparison

those P7 LEDs rule :exclaim:


What optics are you using? Am I correct in thinking the emitter of the P7 is of larger diameter to the P4?


I used these reflectors http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4586,
mainly because I had some, they were easy to mount and I was keen t
o see them light up right now, ;)

when/if I get time I am keen to experiment with other reflector/optic options

and yes the P7 is a bigger emitter than the P4, I had to ream out the reflector to about 8.5mm and grind a bit of the back to get a good fit over the P7,
however the P7 and P4 star are the same size . :thumbsup:


What are you using to run them? Have you found any drivers to get them up to full noise?


At the moment I am using "direct drive" with Li-ion battery's and a two way switch switchable through a resister so I can take the top of freshly charged battery's and to give me an uphill and a road mode.


I have got several of these drivers that I am going to try but the 6volt max input is to low to use with two or more Li-ion cells so I am needing to get a holder for 4 D NiMH, and the time :( http://www.kaidomain.com/WEBUI/ProductD ... ranID=4338


My next P7 project is to put 3 of them into a tri-reflectors or maybe even 4 in a quad lens using one of these http://www.taskled.com/d2dim.html for dimming :D
The parts have been on my bench at work for about six weeks now ;), only need some spare time so I can put it all together :exclaim:
cd
Member for: 14 years 8 months

Postby shredder13 on Sun 1/Jun/08 11:11am

cd wrote:

My next P7 project is to put 3 of them into a tri-reflectors or maybe even 4 in a quad lens using one of these http://www.taskled.com/d2dim.html for dimming :D
The parts have been on my bench at work for about six weeks now ;), only need some spare time so I can put it all together :exclaim:


Arrr sounds like true excess :thumbsup:, I was thinking about 2 but 4 mmmm sounds even better :0
shredder13
Member for: 14 years 7 months

Boosting Voltage From 6v

Postby Stumpy on Tue 3/Jun/08 8:38am

I’m going to build my own LED mtb lights. I already have a 6V 4.5Ah NiMH battery system which I would like to use. It seems most people prefer to drop the voltage using a buckpuck or similar. Does anyone have experience or advice about using a driver which boosts the voltage? In particular I am looking at the Fatman or Maxiflex drivers available from Cutter http://www.cutter.com.au/products.php?cat=27&pg=2

Thoughts?
Stumpy
Member for: 14 years 5 months

RE: Boosting Voltage From 6v

Postby shredder13 on Tue 3/Jun/08 7:11pm

Stumpy wrote: I’m going to build my own LED mtb lights. I already have a 6V 4.5Ah NiMH battery system which I would like to use. It seems most people prefer to drop the voltage using a buckpuck or similar. Does anyone have experience or advice about using a driver which boosts the voltage? In particular I am looking at the Fatman or Maxiflex drivers available from Cutter http://www.cutter.com.au/products.php?cat=27&pg=2

Thoughts?


Fatman works well, well at least on the bench until you have a dodgy led connection and it gets fried... :( Not sure what it is like at the end of the battery life would suggest getting an alarm circuit so you have some notice before everything goes black when the battery gives up (and so you don't over discharge it). I would suggest going direct to Taskled as is a bit cheaper
www.taskled.com
shredder13
Member for: 14 years 7 months

Postby znomit on Tue 3/Jun/08 9:06pm

Maxflex has programable battery protection warnings and cutoff built in, so you don't have to worry too much about ruining your batteries from over discharge... though it still goes out suddenly if you ignor the warnings or stupidly program the wrong cutoff level in :crazy:
...2 lights is always a good idea.
The 5 light level one button interface is very nice to ride with. Go for it!

Ordering direct is under 50NZ$ delivered, George at taskled is great to deal with too, very helpful with all my stupid questions.
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Member for: 12 years 5 months

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