Bike Mechanics Impart Their Wisdom On Vorb

jeyboi · *by **jeyboi** on Mon 6/Sep/10 10:00pm*

a little TF2 or similar around the axle may help.

it could also be your cleat (or more likely, the sole of your shoe) moving on the pedal platform itself - check the sole of your shoe for telltale signs, often a few mm behind the back of the cleat.

Spokes · *by **Spokes** on Mon 6/Sep/10 10:01pm*

nzmatto wrote:Ooooh...seeing this reminds me....Squeaky pedal.

I have a pedal (Look keo) that starts squeaking after about 60-70km on the bike when on hills. 99% certain it's the pedal cause the squeak followed the pedal when I swapped bikes....kinda figure this rules out all the normal things like seat post, BB, etc.
I had been told pedals are sealed units and should not be lubed (or something like that), now I am wondering, thinking I got that wrong. Can I just lube these with my normal silicone spray stuff?

Ta Matt

Buy Shimanos.

Or put a little lube on the cleat which is where ive found looks squeak.

musket · *by **musket** on Mon 6/Sep/10 10:17pm*

If you have carbon soles, a slim plastic shim under cleat, plus occasional teflon spray at cleat and pedal might help.

Speedplay make nice pedals too...

Oli · *by **Oli** on Mon 6/Sep/10 10:44pm*

Old Look pedals used to respond well to a good rubbing with a candle - the wax stopped the squeaks. Also check a stone hasn't lodged in your cleat somewhere, as this can be a squeaker too...

nzmatto · *by **nzmatto** on Tue 7/Sep/10 8:15am*

Thanks. Will have a look tonight and see how I get on. It seems to be only after a good couple of hours or so of riding that it starts and then it is only on the downstroke (must be all that awesome power

) Here's hoping as it's bloody annoying.

danose · *by **danose** on Tue 7/Sep/10 11:31am*

nzmatto wrote:I have a pedal (Look keo) that starts squeaking after about 60-70km on the bike when on hills. 99% certain it's the pedal cause the squeak followed the pedal when I swapped bikes....kinda figure this rules out all the normal things like seat post, BB, etc.

check the pedal/cleat interface - it's a known source of that kind of squeak. Quite often the only fix is new cleats - but a little candle wax rubbed on the cleat can help (like oli said - it's what I do when it's annoying me)

I've got an old pair of pp247s that do the same when cleats wear down a bit - always starts on my right foot (the one I unclip with at lights - so the cleat that wears the fastest)

Crashed · *by **Crashed** on Sun 12/Sep/10 11:15am*

I have a six speed rear wheel on my commuter which has two cracks in the rim ,my shifters are indexed and on the down tube.Is there any way to convert the shifter to a nine speed or friction shifter ?Dose any one have a friction or nine speed down tube indexed shifter in there old stuff/junk box . I have a spare nine speed wheel which I have been thinking about putting on my commuter for a while but never got round to doing it ,but now I have to !

C.J. · *by **C.J.** on Sun 12/Sep/10 12:07pm*

Hey all.
Trying to get some 1980's Dia Compe (road) brake levers off a drop bar, but with the hoods off can't see any means of loosening/removing them (no obvious screws, allen bolts etc.)
Any ideas?
Cheers.

Oli · *by **Oli** on Sun 12/Sep/10 12:09pm*

Hey bro, are you looking inside the lever body itself; ie. under where the cable hooks up? From memory (never entirely reliable!) it's a 4mm allen head...

musta · *by **musta** on Sun 12/Sep/10 12:12pm*

C.J. wrote:Hey all.
Trying to get some 1980's Dia Compe (road) brake levers off a drop bar, but with the hoods off can't see any means of loosening/removing them (no obvious screws, allen bolts etc.)
Any ideas?
Cheers.

Loosen the brake cable... squeeze the lever... and look in the gap created between the lever and the hood when you squeeze... There should be a screw head for you to loosen which after loosened a few turns will allow the brake lever to be slid off the bar.

yeahnah · *by **yeahnah** on Sun 12/Sep/10 12:13pm*

Oli wrote:Hey bro, are you looking inside the lever body itself; ie. under where the cable hooks up? From memory (never entirely reliable!) it's a 4mm allen head...

As Oli says a 4 mm right at the back of the lever internals .Some times they had a small oblong slot at the frt of the lever to put the allen key though .

C.J. · *by **C.J.** on Sun 12/Sep/10 12:15pm*

Thanks guys.
Indeed, there is a slot at the front which appears made for that very purpose.
Legends. :love:

herbman · *by **herbman** on Sun 12/Sep/10 7:20pm*

hi

my quando 135mmX 12mm rear hub broke the thin metal axle which holds the bearings in place today, as it does seem a major brand can you get parts for them? or have they made and sold under some other brand names?

thanks brent

Mr_Bob · *by **Mr_Bob** on Sun 12/Sep/10 8:58pm*

herbman wrote:hi

my quando 135mmX 12mm rear hub broke the thin metal axle which holds the bearings in place today, as it does seem a major brand can you get parts for them? or have they made and sold under some other brand names?

thanks brent

Got a photo of the broken one we can take a look at?

vintapperen · *by **vintapperen** on Tue 14/Sep/10 2:41pm*

1x9 chainline

Pondering on building up my hardtail as a 1x9 but on looking at the chainline I would end up with I am not so sure. I was thinking that moving one of the driveside BB spacers to the non-driveside (68mm BB shell) and dropping the 11T off my 11:34 cassette and then putting a spacer behind the 34T might make the setup work a bit better. Discuss ...

Bike Mechanics Impart Their Wisdom On Vorb

Who is online

VORB SUPPORTERS