and check your pedals

shmoodiver wrote:don't forget danose's knees!

nah, they make a kind of graunchy crunching sound with the odd pop

Wobbler wrote:and check your pedals

Check your PM's

NICE!

DogsBollocks wrote:yeah but as I said, it only does it under load so I'm pretty sure it's the BB (same noise as last time and re greasing fixed the issue) Should I get it back in to the LBS quick smart or just get it sorted with the 6 week check up (considering of course that I'm heading to Hanmer this weekend )

and good advise danose

Yep, pedals, chain ring bolts, qr dropouts and BB are all things that creak under load and not at other times... but threads on the BB are the most likely one.

I would recommend taking it in for the 6 week checkup early. If you tell the bike shop what is going on it should be a free service??

Trail wrote:I would recommend taking it in for the 6 week checkup early. If you tell the bike shop what is going on it should be a free service??

yep - and conversely, if you know it's making odd noises but carry on thrashing it for the next 4 weeks anyway (in the process stuffing something) they could be less than pleased

danose wrote:

Trail wrote:I would recommend taking it in for the 6 week checkup early. If you tell the bike shop what is going on it should be a free service??

yep - and conversely, if you know it's making odd noises but carry on thrashing it for the next 4 weeks anyway (in the process stuffing something) they could be less than pleased

gnar maing, we love that shit.

shmoodiver wrote:a lot of bikes come with very little grease on the bb threads, and should be repacked upon assembly IMO, but time constraints usually rule out the repacking. heaps of bikes i see could do with h/s, hubs and bb repacks right out of the box.

That's because BB cups now use a thread locking compound on the cups, not grease. If you add grease to thread lock, the thread lock no longer locks; and subsequently comes loose. The specified torque on a BB cup is actually quite light, (25-30ft lbs) next time you install a BB, use a torque wrench and see. When Grover's first bike broke, the first question the rep asked me was whether or not I used a torque wrench, and what torque I used.

By using grease as the install medium at that torque, the BB is likely to vibrate loose and give a creaking BB. A loctited BB (#222) is firm enough to secure the cups, but soft enough to break when the BB needs installing.

Chickenman wrote:The specified torque on a BB cup is actually quite light, (25-30ft lbs) next time you install a BB, use a torque wrench and see.

shimano quote 35-50nm in their docs (that's 25-35ft lbs for those stuck back in the imperial system). With a normal Park external BB tool that's tight enough to have to swing on a it a bit (not bouncing up and down sweating). At that kind of torque blue (243 - which is the colour you'll see on new cups) is really just acting as a thread lube I reckon - I quite happily grease instead and have ZERO probs with loose/creaky cups. 222 (purple) would just be silly (it's the kind of stuff I'd use on bottle cage bolts)

I do believe their are gorillas out there who HAVE done the cups up tight enought to stuff em (same as people killed the non-fixed cups on SKFs by over-tightening), but they're the kind of people who do everything up white knuckle tight

Chickenman wrote:

shmoodiver wrote:a lot of bikes come with very little grease on the bb threads, and should be repacked upon assembly IMO, but time constraints usually rule out the repacking. heaps of bikes i see could do with h/s, hubs and bb repacks right out of the box.

That's because BB cups now use a thread locking compound on the cups, not grease. If you add grease to thread lock, the thread lock no longer locks; and subsequently comes loose. The specified torque on a BB cup is actually quite light, (25-30ft lbs) next time you install a BB, use a torque wrench and see. When Grover's first bike broke, the first question the rep asked me was whether or not I used a torque wrench, and what torque I used.

By using grease as the install medium at that torque, the BB is likely to vibrate loose and give a creaking BB. A loctited BB (#222) is firm enough to secure the cups, but soft enough to break when the BB needs installing.

Meh, 6 foot bar on the tool that you can sit on. Then your getting close to tight. And 600 series loctite for the win.

My head set on my bmx is loose
It like wobbles very slightly like 1mm of play
Entire stem is done up tight
The little steerer tube allen key is tight
Any suggestions or is the headset arsed?

IamTOAD wrote:My head set on my bmx is loose
It like wobbles very slightly like 1mm of play
Entire stem is done up tight
The little steerer tube allen key is tight
Any suggestions or is the headset arsed?

You have ovalised the head tube and stretched the fork steerer. Time for a new bike.

ok smarties... seeing as you're talking BB's

I don't need to get it off at the moment, but on the chance that I will one day, and can't get to teh miracle that is Vorb at that time, I wanna ask you about removing an external BB whose splines were pretty badly munched by the previous owner.

The frame was a 2nd hand purchase from fellow Vorber, so won't embarass them by naming and shaming. It was a great deal so I'm not moaning about that... just wanting some tips for removing the BB.

Ironhorse 7Point3 frame, with an FSA bb (I presume the original).

Try to reshape the splie with a dremel? Give up and get a cold chisel and a large hammer?

Spokes wrote:

IamTOAD wrote:My head set on my bmx is loose
It like wobbles very slightly like 1mm of play
Entire stem is done up tight
The little steerer tube allen key is tight
Any suggestions or is the headset arsed?

You have ovalised the head tube and stretched the fork steerer. Time for a new bike.

Serious???
Fuck only just boiught it
New frame and fork = like new?

IamTOAD wrote:

Spokes wrote:

IamTOAD wrote:My head set on my bmx is loose
It like wobbles very slightly like 1mm of play
Entire stem is done up tight
The little steerer tube allen key is tight
Any suggestions or is the headset arsed?

You have ovalised the head tube and stretched the fork steerer. Time for a new bike.

Serious???
Fuck only just boiught it
New frame and fork = like new?

If its new, it could be a case of needing another thin spacer (as the headset is binding on the top cap, but not all of the preload is being taken up)